Day 7 - November 17th, 2007 - Edfu to Luxor

Woke up at 6:00 a.m. and got ready.  Went up to sun deck and took some sunrise photos.  Went to breakfast.  Had toast with butter, mashed potatoes, croissant, and hot tea.  We then all gathered in main deck lounge for quick pre-trip meeting.

We boarded a mini-bus and drove a few miles into town to the Temple of Horus.

This temple was quite large and well preserved.  They had done a nice job with the grounds around it as well.  Visited nearly every room in the temple and some of the outer areas.  Walked down into the nilometer on this site as well. [2019 NOTE: A nilometer is a well like structure in the ground that allowed the priests to measure the ground water level and therefore predict the coming flood seasons to better plan crop planting.] 

Main entry pylon.

While taking photos of well preserved and undamaged carvings in a stair well up to the main wall top, a local kept pointing at things and trying without much knowledge to explain them.  I went ahead and gave him a US dollar even though his assistance was not needed or useful.

We only had 1 hour 20 minutes here, so met back at gate and got back on bus.  Back at boat dock I picked up a few bottles of water for 5 Egyptian pounds each to save a bit of money.

Got back in cabin and changed into cooler clothes.  Did some writing and then prepared to go up on deck as we were preparing to sail at 9:00 a.m.  Can hear the engines and feel the motion now even.

Went up top and sat on the sundeck for a few hours talking to various members of the group.  Discussions were all over the topic range.  Spent much of it talking with Amanda, Katie, Stephanie, Angela and Rebecca.  About 1:00 p.m. we went down for lunch.  This of course happened just as we started to move into the river lock at Esna.  Took a few photos while lunch was still being put out on buffet table.  Ate a nice lunch.  Rice, potatoes, beans in tomato sauce, little steak patties, chicken in sauce, minestrone soup, pastry and Coke to drink.  After lunch I went up to get shots of the lock in action.  The lock lowered us about 20 feet.  We then continued up the Nile.

The Nile river lock at Esna

Went up on sundeck and started talking again.  A bit later noticed three of the girls going into the pool. (Rebecca, Katie and Amanda).  Rebecca came back and said it was too cold.

I walked down by the pool to see and it was VERY cold.  They started telling me it was fine once you got in.  Eventually I decided to get in.  Since I had no swimsuit, I just wore my pants (which the legs zipped off) and I had on a t-shirt as well.  Kept my hat on too.  I could not resist the chance to swim while on the Nile with two beautiful and charming ladies.

Once we got out I sat out in the sun with them while they sun bathed so I could dry out.  I then went back to the main group.  Later they joined us for a bit, then went to go swim again.  I again joined them in the pool and a few others got in then.

The pool on the sundeck.

Afterwards we sat around with the main group and talked till Sami came up for our meeting about tomorrow.  After that (and a great sunset) the group broke up and I returned to the cabin, changed out of damp clothes and hung them to dry.  Then sat down to write.

*One thing that is strange to hear all around Egypt is the calls to prayer that are broadcast around towns 5 times a day.  Seeing a few people out on the street in prayer was also surprising.  There are lots of mosques, from simple to fancy, some with tall minarets.*

*Our boat is a typical Nile river cruiser.  It is called the Akhnaten.  It has 4 decks.  The bottom water line deck is all crew space.  The main deck has the lobby, lounge, dining room and about a dozen cabins.  The cabin doors open onto the main walkways along the side of the ship.  The second deck is all cabins in the same setup.  The sun deck has the wheel house, a lounge, restroom, the sun deck and bar, and the pool.  This boat is a 4 star rated boat.  Were only supposed to have a 3 star boat, but we got a free upgraded cruise for some unstated reason.*

At 7:00 p.m. we gathered in the lobby lounge to pay the money for the hot air balloon ride next day (95 USD).  After we all did that, we sat and talked till dinner.

At dinner I had rice with tomato sauce on top, meatballs, potatoes in tomato sauce, lentil soup with croutons, and a Coke to drink.  After dinner we all went back to change into our traditional outfits.  Mine was really hot, so wore it without a shirt below.

We slowly all arrived in the main deck lounge and talked while the music played.  Took a few photos (mainly of the three Egyptian queens - Amanda, Rebecca, Katie) and some other cool setups.

Amanda, Katie, Rebecca

As the groups all arrived we did group photos.  The tour leaders took everyone's cameras and took the picture as we stood there.

The tour group and our tour leader (in chair).

Then a bit of dancing to some kind of game they played.  Kind of strange and not too interesting.

The next game was also a bit odd and the next was really stupid.  By this time our group had split up and a few had retired (Amanda and Rebecca).

The last game I saw was a belly dance with 1 girl from each group.  Katie did ours and was pretty good.  I left after that as the noise, heat and smoke was getting to me.  I went up on the sun deck and took a few photos, then came down and prepared for bed as we have a 4:00 a.m. wake up.  Just wrote a bit in here and then went to sleep.

Day 6 - November 16th, 2007 - Abu Simbel, Aswan to Edfu

Was up at 3:15 a.m.  Took a cold shower as the water heater was not working!  Socks and underwear were still wet!  So packed them in a plastic sack and redid bag.  Put bag outside door for a transfer to cruise ship that day.  We met in lobby and soon boarded a large tour bus along with another Gecko group.

The drive to Abu Simbel was long.  Took about 3 hours.  I slept for about an hour and woke up in time to see the sun rise.  Ate the box breakfast the hotel had prepared.  Apple juice, cheese, hard egg and a roll with strawberry jam.

Sunrise from the bus on way to Abu Simbel.

We arrived and got off the bus, walked to the main gate and got the entry tickets.

The guide (which was a free upgrade, this was originally supposed to be self guided) took us around to the two temples.  We sat in the chairs used for the sound and light show and he talked about the history of the temples and the effort to save them from the waters of Lake Nasser.

Afterwards we were on our own for about 1 hour 30 minutes.  Many lined up for a group photo, but I just went off to photo Ramesses II temple.

I went inside, but again no photos allowed :( .  The crowds here are horrible and there is no organization or traffic flow.  Pushed my way to the main sanctuary and then left.  Did a few shots of the lake, the outside of Nefertari's Temple.  Went into first room of it, but then left (No photos again).

Nefertari's Temple

Lake Nasser

Walked around and back to cafe.  Went over to the shops and looked.  Some guy wanted to sell me a book.  It is a nice book about the history of Abu Simbel and other temples saved from Lake Nasser (Including that of Philae).  I asked how much and he told me 900 Egyptian pounds.  I must have looked like a schmuck to him.  Told him I would not pay more than 300 Egyptian pounds (which is still 100 more than it is probably worth).  He started to lower price, offering a book of post cards as "free gift" or wanting to trade for my sunglasses as a discount.

Eventually as I was leaving he let me have it for 300. [2019 NOTE: Which was still twice what book was worth, but since I had offered, not expecting him to take it I felt I should pay it.  Today book is hard to find, so might actually be worth the cost paid now.]

I then looked around a few more shops and dealt with a few more pushy sellers.  Finally went back to cafe and paid 10 Egyptian pounds for a Coke (tourist trap pricing).

Eventually tour guide sent us toward parking lot, but no one knew where the bus was.  For some reason as I walked out among all the buses, everyone else from my tour group just stood in once spot.

So I found bus and went back for them.  Bus ride back was long and hot.  I napped for about 1.5 hours, then spent some time talking to Amanda, the girl from Canada.

We were dropped off at the cruise boat and met up with Sami.  He had a short meeting to explain a few things, then we got room keys, picked up our luggage and went to rooms.  Boat started to sail shortly after 2:00 p.m. and it was just before 1:00.  We had a wonderful lunch till the boat sailed.

Lunch was buffet style.  Had some rice, rice mix with chicken, beef, potatoes, potatoes in tomato sauce, chicken leg, and for dessert a date, date pie and some kind of chocolate pie.  Drank nothing.

After organizing room, boat had started to sail.  Went up to sun deck, did some photos and then sat with a group and talked.  Soon most moved to lounge chairs or into the pool, but I stayed at table and talked with Katie (New Zealand girl who currently lives in London UK) for quite some time.  At 4:00 we had tea on the deck.  (Also paid 8 Egyptian pounds for a Coke).

Nile River scene.

Sun deck of the boat.

We docked in Kom Ombo about 4:30 right next to the Temple of Sobek.  After a short info meeting we went ashore and visited the temple.  This time we did not have any guide and also was allowed to take photos.  Got some wonderful shots and did some more work on some detail carvings.

Temple of Sobek at Kom Ombo

Temple wall detail.

We were scheduled to meet the leader at a small coffee shop at 6:00.  Got there early, talked a bit, then went into a shop.  I was looking for a traditional Egyptian dress shirt for a party on the boat the next night. [2019 NOTE: This is the Jalabiya, traditional Arabic long shirt.]

The stuff was kind of ugly, so just looked for a small object for the shelf at work.  Found a small statue of Tutankhamun's mask (no color).  They wanted 95 Egyptian pounds.  Told them no and soon got it for 55 Egyptian pounds. (I should not have paid over 50, but figured it was not much more).  He then asked me about the clothing (I think they know the tours buy them for the party) and I asked to see a simple one.  A plain white shirt and they asked 250 Egyptian pounds.  I said no more than 150.  Settled on 160 and tossed in 5 Egyptian pounds as a tip so I did not have to wait for change.

Got back on boat, relaxed and wrote a bit.  Had dinner at 7:30.  Meal was good.  Rice, beef in sauce, mashed potato, breaded chicken, fish in sauce, cooked tomatoes, some kind of egg flan and a soup I did not know.  Drank 2 Coke's (at 8 Egyptian pounds each) and then came up on sun deck to do more writing.  Kind of cold up there with the wind, motion of the boat and water all around us.  Nice and peaceful though.

After a few more minutes in the cool air, went into upper lounge (setup like a traditional Arab tent) and the group was all in there.  Sat and talked with various members of the group until they all had turned in.  While were were talking the ship arrived and docked at Edfu.  The last to leave was myself and Sami.  He was in a bit of a mood as some kind of mess up had left him and the other 2 Gecko leaders without a room.  They only had 1 single bed room left.

Upper lounge of cruise ship (taken earlier in day)

After Sami left, I walked around a bit on the deck and then returned to the room.  After talking a bit turned in.

Day 5 - November 15th, 2007 - Aswan

After arrival in Aswan, we walked a few blocks to the hotel.  This place is a bit nicer than the one in Cairo.  After getting checked in we had just over an hour to clean up after the long train ride.

The room did not have any towels in it!!   Marshall (room mate) went down twice and finally a guy ran to the laundry and got us some.  (Cost us each 5 Egyptian pound tip).

After cleaning up I washed my main shirt in the sink and hung it to dry while I am out this day.

We left at 1:30 by bus to visit the Temple of Isis on Philae Island.  The bus dropped us at the dock where we took a small taxi boat to the island which is located in the lower lake between the High Dam and Lower Dam.  We saw the back side of the Lower Dam.  I also bought more post cards (10 Egyptian pounds) and a history map (10 Egyptian Pounds).

Back side of the Lower Aswan dam.

Once on the island we toured through the temple plaza, in through the pylon and saw inside the many temples dedicated to various gods by various Pharaoh's and Greeks and Romans.

Once done with the tour, I had time to do some more photos.  And for once I could use the camera inside. :)

*The Philae complex is a wonder in that it was moved from a nearby island to this island (which was renamed Philae as the original).  The temple had been under water for a few years while the waters of Nasser Lake rose.  In 1972 they sank walls around the temple and drained the water.  Then the temples were disassembled and moved to the new location*

The piles still in the lake that held the walls around the original island now submerged below the lake.

After the island visit we took taxi boat back to dock and the bus back to the hotel.  We spent a few minutes relaxing in lobby, then paid our upgrade cost for the felucca ride (55 Egyptian pounds).

We walked down to the river Nile and boarded the felucca.  Had to remove shoes and then get on boat.

A felucca is a local style boat used for centuries.  It is powered by sail, wide, low in the water.  The top is covered by flat boards and then laid with cushions.  You can sit or lay down and watch things slowly float by.

As part of this longer (3 hour) cruise we will get dinner on the boat.  As I write this I can smell it cooking.

Some other small sites nearby are the Shrine of the Aga Khan on top of a nearby hill, and not far from that the many noble tombs built by Greeks and Romans.

The dinner on board was wonderful.  After sailing up the river a few miles we got a tow from a taxi boat up to the tip of Elephantine Island just below the temple ruins.  By now it was after sunset.

Sailing the Nile by felucca.

We sat around the center of the boat and some simple candles were brought out.

The meal consisted of a minestrone type of soup, rice, chicken, tomato salad, potatoes in tomato sauce and bread.  Grapes were served as dessert.

We were joined at the mooring by the other two Gecko travel groups.  Soon after we moved over to the taxi boat which then took us back down river and docked at a riverside restaurant.  We used the restaurant to get back up on the main bank.

Half the group went to use the ATM while I stayed with the others waiting.

After rejoining the group, Sami walked us up to the Aswan market street and turned us loose.  This street is about 2 miles long and has shops selling everything you can imagine.  Cloth, clothing, spices, shoes, meat, electronics, papyrus, statues, jewelry, food, etc.  The street is closed to traffic and is smooth and well lit.  It is an interesting place.

However, I was tired, back was hurting and really do not need anything more and most the cool looking things are probably priced too high and would require shipping home.

Marshall and I just came back to the hotel were I organized pack and did some laundry.  Shirt dried nicely, so did the pants as well.  Then also did socks and underwear.

Will be going to bed early as we have to be up really, really early for the ride to Abu Simbel.

*Note on toilets in Egypt.  This is an area that can be strange.  While the hotel bathrooms are fine (sink, toilet, tub with shower) the public space is way different.  The toilets in most public buildings are less clean and it is typical to have an attendant that is expecting a tip.  Now depending on who you talk to, this is not required if you feel the restroom was not clean.  The tip is only 1 Egyptian pound or more depending on you (I left 5 Egyptian pounds at one as I had no small bills).  Many of the tourist sites, and especially those in the more remote desert or valley areas are bad.  Most smell, are very dirty, they do not flush right and in some both genders use same room at same time.  Also even in some hotels and in all public places you will not have toilet paper.

Your should bring or buy some for hotel, trains and boats.  Most public places the attendant will give you a few sheets (and expect an Egyptian pound in return).  The worst are on the trains.  Even the "cleaner" bathrooms are filthy and if you watch as you flush, you will see that it just drops out and onto the tracks below!!*

Day 4 - November 14th, 2007 - Saqqara, Cairo to Aswan.

Day started at 7:30 a.m.  Had a quick breakfast of a roll, hard egg, hot tea and hibiscus tea.

Sat around the room and packed up as we leave the hotel today.  My room was chosen as a day room to be used for luggage storage while out as most had to check out of their own rooms.

We left hotel in bus and drove out of city via Ring road and Saqqara Road.

We arrived at Saqqara and visited mastaba tomb of Mereruka.  Went inside (No photos again :( )
Also saw pyramid of Tety I.  Also went inside (No photos :( ) and guide told us about it.  Tipped him 1 Egyptian pound.  We then drove over to funeral complex of Zoser.  Walked temple, courtyard, Heb Sed court and around step pyramid.  Also saw nearby pyramids of Pepi I and those in distance of Abusir and Dashur.  Also saw pyramid and temple of Unas.

Zoser step pyramid complex

Left and drove to village where small parts of Memphis have been found.  Most is now under village homes.

Saw many small and large statues of Ramesses II.  Also saw alabaster sphinx.

Then drove back to hotel.  Walked over to Sheraton to exchange money.  On way some shop keeper detained me to sell me papyrus.  I talked for a bit and then went on.  Stopped on way back at Tika Chicken and ordered lunch.  Tawa Chicken Tikka.  Food was excellent.

After lunch went back to hotel to sit around till we go to dinner at 7:00 p.m.  Decided that watching cheesy TV shows in Arabic was boring, so walked up to 10th floor restaurant and took some photos from open window.  Then left hotel and walked a few blocks to bridge over river Nile (small fork).  Then once on Gizera Island I went down to El Gizerah Hotel and went inside to find the Buddha Bar.  Will come back here later while back in Cairo.  Went out on back terrace and had great views of the main Nile River.  Saw other big hotels and views.

Spent rest of afternoon watching some movie in English on the TV.

About 6:30 went up to Hami's (10th floor restaurant) and sat with some of the group talking and drinking a cola.  Soon all the group was there and Sami arrived.  He collected the tip kitty of 160 Egyptian pounds from everyone.  He will use this to tip everyone along the tour on our behalf.  He then went over the plans for the overnight train to Aswan which left around 10:30ish that night.  It takes about 12 hours to get down to Aswan.

We then had dinner.  Was some Mediterranean style chicken, veggies, rice and some potatoes.  Also some odd thing I cannot describe that did not taste good.  Had another cola and some kind of pastry dessert.

Talked about various things and we all decided to upgrade our felucca boat ride in Aswan tomorrow.  We then paid for our drinks (7 Egyptian pounds per soda!!) and went back to the room a little after 8 p.m.  About 9ish most put bags out to be taken down to bus.  We gathered in lobby for awhile and then drove to the train station.

At the station we got our tickets from the leader, went through security and waited near the platform.  About 30 minutes and the train arrived.  We boarded along with some people from another Gecko Tour group. [2019 NOTE:  Gecko's Adventures was the name of the tour company I booked trip through.]

Once on the train, stowed bags on overhead rack.  Sat in nice comfy seats with good leg room.  We pulled out of station and slowly headed south.  Could not see much in the dark but the lights on the rail side buildings.

Learned also tonight that our free day at end of tour has an option for a day trip to Alexandria.  Need to get a least 4 people to do trip, so will work on that so I can get the last section of Egypt to the north.

While on the train I, as typical, could not sleep.  Spent an hour or so talking to Sami and one of the Aussie girls (Georgia) about everything under the sun.  Train has stopped at 2 cities so far.  Hopefully I will tire enough to sleep here soon.  We have about 3 hours till we hit Luxor, then 5 more hours to Aswan.

Slept for about two and a half hours and woke up just as the sun was rising.  Tried to take a few photos, but windows are really dirty and was moving too fast.  Later saw the solar disk rising above the horizon.  Did manage a few good shots and also took some countryside photos.

Sunrise while crossing the Nile

Had some hot tea (3 Egyptian Pounds) to warm up.  Was cold at night and window next to me was missing outer pane (2 pane window).  We finally stopped in Luxor about 8:00 a.m. and sat for a bit of time.

*The people of Egypt are interesting.  Most are very friendly, even those trying to get money from you.  You see all kinds of people.  Formal dress business men, modern clothing on all ages, traditional clothes and religious attire on some women (fully covered).  75% of Egypt is Muslim, the rest are mostly Copts, Egypt's form of Christianity (and the original form as well).  In Cairo you see rich and poor alike.  Also many police forces (regular, tourism, traffic).  It is different to see many walk around with machine guns on shoulder.

The city is alive at all hours.  Many shops and food stands open till very late.   Even in the countryside there are people up and going about at early morning hours.  Out in the countryside it is almost like looking into the past.  The fields and trees appear just as they must have 3,000 years ago.  The farmers still do their work with methods and tools little changed in that time.  Even transportation is old, many using mule driven carts (though carts are modern construction).  Also many people walking about.  Almost every building is constructed the same.  Reinforced concrete frame with brick walls.  They build the homes themselves in many cases and some just keep growing up.  The height and number of tall buildings is amazing.  Most look dingy and poor on the exterior, though some paint them up nicely.  Most buildings have laundry hanging from the balconies, even in the cities.*

Buildings along outskirts of Cairo

We left Luxor by 8:30ish and continued on to Aswan with a few more stops.  I ate the box breakfast that we brought from the hotel.  Two rolls, butter, fig jam, apple juice, hard egg and toast.

Day 3 - November 13th, 2007 - Cairo

The day started at 7:30 a.m.  Got up, showered (very weak shower) and went down for breakfast.

Breakfast is buffet style.  Had a hard roll, some kind of flat bread, and tomato sauce with something in it (was okay, but cold, so did not eat) and a hard boiled egg.  Also drank a glass of hibiscus tea and two cups of regular hot tea.

We then gathered our things and met in the lobby.  We quickly covered the days activities and met the tour guide for the day.

She got us on the mini-bus and we drove out to the Giza plateau.  She pointed out other buildings, parks and the zoo while telling us about the modern people of Cairo we saw around us.  Once we got close we got our first sight of the Great Pyramid of Khufu upon the hill.  We stopped and she bought our tickets.  We went past security and then back on the bus.  Drove to a spot between Khufu and Khafre pyramids.  She gave us some quick history, pointed out some good options and warned us about the peddlers.

The first thing was the optional trip inside a pyramid.  The pyramid of Khufu had long lines, limited number of people per day and cost a lot of money.  I opted for the pyramid of Khafre.  It cost 25 Egyptian pounds for my ticket and the total wait was not bad.

The entrance starts as a ramp about 30 degree angle down into the ground.  The roof is only about 3 feet high, so was difficult.  Was kind of crowded and very hot and humid.  After about 100 feet, the tunnel levels out for about 100 feet and roof is 6 feet high.  Some small side chambers and tunnels (all closed off).  The tunnel then goes back up at same angle and 3 foot roof for about 75 feet or so.  Then a long tunnel with 6 foot roof for about 150 feet.

The main burial chamber was about 20 feet wide, 60 feet long and had 30 foot high vaulted roof.  At one end was the stone sarcophagus with the lid propped open.  Nothing else in the room except the graffiti left by Bellini from when he found the chamber.

Left by same route seeing other chambers going off in other direction above the ramp.

Once out, I got my camera from the bus.  (No photos allowed inside as of a few years ago :( )

I walked along the edge of Khufu's tomb, taking a few shots and ignoring the guys trying to sell stupid towel caps.

Went into the Solar Boat Museum along Khufu's pyramid.  Saw the chamber it was found in and the model and various artifacts with it.  Then went up and saw the reconstructed boat.

Afterwards walked over near the small pyramids of his wife and daughter.  Also went inside one of the funeral mastaba tombs of some other official.  I did not like the pushy guide inside, so left without exploring the lower tomb.  Took more photos of Khufu and then walked over to Khafre.

On the way had to ignore guys on camels and others wanting me to take their picture (and then expect money afterwards) and more towel and postcard sellers.

Took a few photos of Khafre's pyramid and his temple ruins.  Had some local girls start asking me all kinds of questions and trying to tell me about the pyramid.  Sadly they were wrong on facts and were probably trying to get money too.

I got back to the bus and we then soon left to drive up to the overlook.  Took some good photos of all three pyramids.

We then went down off the plateau to the Sphinx and Temple of Khafre.  Took some photos of both and trod slowly along in more crowds.

We then met the guide across the road and got back on the bus.

*Overall was great.  The lack of photos in the pyramids disappointed me.  Also did not have the time to really see the place.  Also the crowds take away from the mystical experience.  You can only find yourself uncrowded on rare occasions.*

We went to lunch next.  Guide took us to a local Egyptian food stand.  I ordered a chicken shawarma sandwich and some water.  Cost about 15 Egyptian pounds.

We ate on the bus while on route to the Papyrus Institute.  This place makes and teaches about papyrus paper.  They showed the plant as it looks while growing, how it is cut to get at the inner soft fiber, the process of cutting, flattening, soaking, and pressing until you have paper left.

We then walked the gallery of scrolls made and hand painted by local artists.  All were for sale of course.  Originally I had not intended to buy one, but found a great one to get.  It shows the weighing of the heart temple scene.  It cost 1,500 Egyptian pounds, but we got a 20% discount via the tour, so final cost was about 1,250 Egyptian pounds. [2019 NOTE:  This papyrus is about 6 feet by 18 inches in size]

We then drove across to the Egyptian Antiquities Museum.  Took some photos of the large sculptures in the garden.  Inside photos were not allowed anymore :( .

The guide told us about some extra options, then guided us into the main Tutankhamun collection.  We also saw the papyrus collection, jewelry collection and some highlights from all periods.  We then had 45 minutes to see things we wanted.  I quickly looked over the animal mummies, sarcophagus room, main tomb room, some big sculptures, the Akenaten room and some later Greek influence stuff.  I opted not to pay extra to see the mummies of the royals.

We then met outside and waited for the bus.  (Will document later objects seen.) [2019 NOTE:  I never actually did this!]

*Overall was nice, but we did not have near enough time to see anything with detail.  Also upset about the no photography.  I also did not like the way many pieces were displayed.  Many were open to touch and are now ruined, many had no information about them either.  Lighting was poor and things arranged in haphazard method and in odd places.*

After getting back to the hotel we quickly got ready for the optional trip back to the Sphinx for the Sound and Light Show.  They project images, colored lights, and lasers with music and narration on the Sphinx, Khafre's temple and all the pyramids.

It tells the history of Egypt and the plateau from the point of view of the Sphinx and its timeless watch over the area.  Show was nice, but many photos did not work.  No flash allowed (or wanted), but without a tripod, camera shake blurred the image due to long exposure times.  If I knew how to use the manual features might of done better.

We then came back to hotel.  Got stuck in funny four way traffic jam near the hotel.

I then walked to the grocer with a couple people, did some shopping (water, snacks, souvenirs) and then I went alone to KFC again for dinner.

Back at hotel I spent rest of night writing all this.

Day 2 - November 12th, 2007 - Switzerland to Egypt

After arrival in Zurich went through security checkpoint again.
Took 2 quick photos of view out window.

Swiss Air flight to Cairo was nice.  Had zero ground visibility across Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Adriatic Sea, former Yugoslavia, Albania and Greece.  While over the Med, was granted short view of sea and the tip of Crete.  Fell asleep then, missed entry into Egypt and seeing pyramids from air. :(

Arrival in Cairo

After debarking had slight confusion for getting visa.  Stood in line at passport only to be told to get visa at money exchange. ($15 USD).  Got visa from money place and exchanged $100 for Egyptian pounds (about 548).

Went through passport, then went to exit.  Man asked if I needed taxi, and took me through customs and out to taxi booth.  Told me $15 USD for trip, then asked for 90 Egyptian pounds.  Only later did I realize I overpaid that way (Too tired to do math).

Taxi guy gave me to another who walked me and carried bag to taxi down the street.  Gave him a $1 tip.

Taxi was driven by another.  This place is crazy on the road.  Was tight getting out of lot.  Had to stop and sign a log as to where they were taking me.

Now into Cairo.  Three marked lanes, five lanes of vehicles, lane changes erratic, speed high, brakes quick and endless honking.  No stop lights, signs or any other sign of control.  Cars, taxi, bus, truck, cycle, all in a free for all.  And somehow it all works, though with many traffic jams lasting a few minutes.

Now add pedestrians crossing at all areas and just walking out in front of you!!

Amazingly few people get hit and accidents are not bad.  Though from the looks of most cars I would say scrapes and bumper/fender nudging are common.  Few cars without small scrapes and dents.

Also many busted down cars by side of road.  Parking is another mess.  Park wherever.  Many roads off main routes are down to one lane and cars going in both directions.  Gets interesting.

Once we reached hotel the driver got my bag.  I tipped him $1 and went inside.

Pharaoh's Hotel - Dokki (10 floors)

The lobby was quiet.  Checked in and then porter carried my bag to room.  He turned on all lights, opened curtain, turned on the A/C and plugged in the  mini fridge.  I tipped him $1 and then checked the place out.  Small room with small bathroom.  2 beds, small desk, armoire and mini fridge.  Small window with view of back of the high rise and side street.  Not much to look at.  Was on 8th floor.

Once in room, laid down to rest but did not sleep since the tour group meeting was in less than 2 hours.  About 30 minutes in my room mate arrived, a younger guy from Sydney, Australia.

He is travelling with his mother and sister.  They are going around Europe before and after this trip.

At the tour meeting we filled out some paperwork, paid final money for trip ($200) and verified for tour leader our insurance and other things.

We then talked about ourselves and then went over the main points of the tour and covered some basics about travel in Egypt.

The leader is Sami.  He is from Cairo and seems to know his job well.  The group is made of the following:

Marshall, Stephanie, Angela - Mother, Son, Daughter from Sydney Australia.

Sam, Jodie - Married couple from Newcastle, Australia.

?, Claire - Couple from ? Australia

Saul, Georgia - Couple from Brisbane, Australia

Rebecca - Girl from Australia

Kathleen? - Girl from Wellington, New Zealand (currently living in London right now)

Amanda - Girl from Niagara Falls area, Canada

Kat?, Mark - Couple from Australia.

After the meeting, the tour leader took us down the street to see where some basic sources were (bank, grocery, internet cafe, ATM, pharmacy, restaurants).

Sami walked me down then to the Sheraton (where I will spend my last two nights) to exchange money.  But they were closed already.

I then met up with the group and we tried to eat at some chicken place (Tika).  We decided to go to KFC because the other place was full.  This KFC is unique as it was the first to be operated solely by the hearing impaired.  You order by pointing to signs and plaques.  They point to the total and use hand motions for all other things.

Once full, we turned in at the hotel, watched a bit of TV and then went to sleep.

Day 1 - November 11th, 2007 - USA to Switzerland

Flight from Phoenix to Washington D.C.
Uneventful, watched Transformers movie.
Had lunch at Subway.

Flight from Washington D.C. to Zurich
Overnight
Watched License to Wed movie (I give it 3 stars)
Watched the GPS map
Meal was okay.
Tried to sleep.

[2019 NOTE:  So yeah, was not sure what I wanted to do with the journal at this point.  Both flights were on United Airlines and do not recall much except on the overseas leg to Zurich a group of us stood in the back of the plane near rear exit/bathroom area and chatted during the very smooth flight.  Mostly talked about where we were going and other past travel.]

A trip back in time.

Egypt: A vast expanse of desert - sand and rock.  Crossing this is a narrow strip of green, a source of life, the Nile River.

Egypt is a study in contrasts.  The river, life and desert.  The blue, green and browns, the ancient and modern.  The mixing of the cultures of Europe, Africa & the Middle East with a bit of the ancient shadowed in there.

Few places on earth can come together like this magnificent region.  With the legacy of at least 6,000 years of human occupation, culture, and hosting one of the oldest and most fascinating (as well as one of the better understood) civilizations in history.  It is a truly amazing place to visit.

So that is what I did.

This trip has a focus on the ancient culture, but still gives you a feel for the other cultural influences past and present.  Greek & Roman touches adorn many ancient sites and Arabic influence is pervasive across the land in the daily lives of the locals.

The following posts were originally written in a journal by hand during this trip in November of 2007.  I have now decided to publish them here, with only the slightest update and corrections when needed, thus preserving how I was thinking and feeling at the time.

Until this trip I had never documented my travels in this way, so the detail and process will grow and change as things progress and I find my inner voice.

I hope you find it interesting!

Thanks

Chris