Day 11 - November 21st, 2007 - Cairo to Sahara Desert

Woke up early at 6:30 a.m.  Got ready and went down to have breakfast with some of the group that was going to Alexandria today.  Met Sami in the hall on way down and gave him a $30 tip for his time.

After breakfast, saw the group off to Alexandria, and then talked for a minute to Georgia.  Her and Saul were headed to airport to continue their travels in Turkey.

I walked down to the Sheraton and exchanged another $200.  This should last me the remainder of my trip with luck.

Back at the hotel I took a few pictures from room balcony, then came down to lobby to write and maybe see a few more members of the group.

Went back to room after a bit and packed.  Then walked over to market to buy some bottles of water.  Sat around room and relaxed while battery for camera charges.

Checked out of room and desert guide was waiting at desk.  Got into a Toyota Land Cruiser and drove out of Cairo.  Drove past Giza pyramids.  Stopped to buy supplies and again for fuel.  [2019 NOTE:  I had booked a desert extension that started at the end of the main tour.  This would be a solo trip with the guide and support staff.] 

Then headed out of town toward El Fayoum.  Just north of Fayoum turned onto Lake Qarun road.  Drove by along south shore of lake till we reached Wadi Rayan Protected Area.  Guide got our admission, then we drove along a small blacktop through nothing but desert sand and rock.  Saw both upper and lower lakes of Rayan.  Turned onto dirt road that took us 30 kilometers back into desert.

Lake Qarun

Checking into the Wadi Rayan Protected Area.

Desert track to Wadi el-Hitan.

Arrived at Wadi el-Hitan about noon.  A small area has been built with a cafe, toilets, camels to ride and tourism stuff.

Cafe area at Wadi el-Hitan where we prepared and ate lunch.

We decided to have lunch first.  I sat in the open air part of the cafe while they took in supplies to make lunch.  While writing this I noticed a find dust of sand constantly blowing and collecting on everything.  Will need to be extra cautious with camera out there and avoid lens changes if possible.  Even this page has a fine grit on it.  This is the edge of the Sahara, and already it is making you feel small.

Lunch was a simple deal.  Potato chips, sliced tomatoes, a tuna and tomato dish, salty cheese and tomato dish, feta cheese and pita bread.  Water to drink.  Afterward some hot tea.

We then walked over and looked at camels.  He discussed the history of the park and then we walked to the info hut.  After reading the signs, we walked up the former road and looked at about 6 skeleton structures.  All but one had been moved to this area from farther in the valley.

40 million year old whale fossil found in area.

We climbed up a small rock formation for a wide panorama of the valley.

Once back to the parking area, used toilet and then we were off to the overnight camp spot.  This area is known as Al Qusr.  It is about 30 minutes by 4x4 off the main road by crossing open desert.  We bounced over small dunes and former truck tracks.  Climbed a hill for a great panoramic view of the camp spot between two large rock outcroppings.

Camp will be between the two rock outcrops in distance.

They let me out of the truck about 2 miles from camp to walk along the top of the large sand dune running to the rocks.  This was an amazing experience.  The sun to my right side, the wind blowing from behind me at a good gust.  Clouds creating shadows upon the ground.  No sound other than the wind and my clothes flapping.  Not a man made structure in sight except the tracks in the sand showing a truck had drove by here.  Way ahead I could see where the truck had stopped.

The walk took about 45 minutes.  The change of light and shadow at the crest of the dune is incredible.  The sand was loose in spots and made walking on the steep dune side tricky.  I found the sand on the windward side was more packed so tried to stay there.  Also tried to disturb the crest as little as possible.  Even then my tracks have permanently altered the dune for a few days and may even change how it forms in the future.

As I approached the camp site I came down off the dune to preserve an area for sunset photos and maybe moonlight (should be a 3/4 moon tonight).  I then stopped at the camp and poured the sand out of my shoes.  Drank a cup of Coke and then wrote in here while still taking a few photos.

After a short wait I walked out onto the dunes again.  This time the wind was really blowing and it was rapidly cooling off.  I followed the dune to one of the large rock outcrops and climbed the massive dune to the top. I would guess 200-300 feet above the desert floor.  The views around were even higher up.

On the climb up the rocks.

I sat on the flat top of the rock and watched the sun set.  Words cannot describe this but I will try.

Sitting on rock strewn sandy spot facing the west.  The wind blowing with strong gusts in your face.  A dust of fine sand hitting your face from time to time.  Temperature cooling off.

The sun sets in a fiery orange sea of low clouds over a sea of dunes and rock cliffs.

The falcon god Horus appears above the suns disk and soars across the sky wheeling around.

As the Sun's disk touches the hills it appears to split into many rays.

Slowly it sinks into the desert leaving only an orange red sky and dark shadows on the clouds, rocks and dunes.

Once the sun had set, I climbed down off the dunes and walked back to camp.  Dinner is cooking and then I will see if the clouds will clear enough to allow the moon to dust the dunes with its rays.

Dinner was lentil soup and a potato and tomato dish with small hot dogs in it.  Drank water, cola.

After the first course I tried to get some moon photos, but did not work.

After the final dish I walked about 200 feet out into the desert down from the camp.  Took a few photos of cliffs in moonlight, but not sure they will turn out.  Possibly out of focus. [2019 NOTE: They did not turn out]  I then sat and just lost myself in the semi-darkness, cool air, cool sand and quiet (some noise from camp, but wind sound muffled it.)  Finally walked back to camp and had some hot hibiscus tea.

They had started a fire in camp, but the smoke was drawn into the wind screen setup.  It made my eyes burn and I could not breathe very good.  As it got close to 8 or 9 p.m. we all turned in.

I opted to sleep on the outside edge, most exposed to the open space, wind and cold.  It did not get as cold as I had feared, though I am happy I brought this pullover instead of the wind jacket.  I woke twice at least in mid night to attend to natures call.  Just walk out into the sand about 30 feet, dig out a small hole with foot.  Go and re-cover.