Awake at 7:00 a.m. Got ready and went down to lobby to check out of hotel. Had a small breakfast there. Scrambled eggs, two sausages, cheese, bread with meats and cheese on it and orange juice.
Walked to train station in very cold morning air. Bought CAT ticket and had same ride back to airport.
From station found ticket check in. Line was long, but moved quickly. Got checked in, but for some reason they could not assign seat number. Will need to do this at gate.
Took a second to find my way to gates. Had to walk through a shopping area. Went through passport control, though line was a bit longer this time. Once inside went to toilet and changed into t-shirt so I could cool down. Went out to store and bought a bottle of water. Sat in general area and drank it down and read a few pages, then walked to gate. Went through security, had to get patted down because something kept setting off detector; might have been zippers on pant legs?
Once through that had to open bag to show them empty soda can inside. Once through was in gate area. Went to counter and asked about seat number. They said it would take some time and I took a seat to write in here.
When they started to board I went up and asked about my seat. They had it ready. Waited for a bit more then got on plane. Flight took off just a bit late. [2019 Note: This was an Austrian Airlines flight]
Flight was mostly calm, just a couple of spots of rough air. Lunch was served soon after. Chicken, pasta with cheese, salad, cake with fruit water and Coke.
Dinner was served later. Salmon on salad, Coke, water and some kind of mousse type dessert.
I watched the newest Die Hard movie, this time with sound. Also watched part of Hairspray and The Contract. Watched a special on round the world solo sailboat race and listened to music, watched music videos, watched the map and played a dumb game.
We arrived on time in Washington D.C. After landing the circus started. First we were offloaded onto a shuttle bus. Driven to other side of airport. Had to wait for 5 minutes, then unloaded in terminal. Walked downstairs to passport control. Long lines and moved a bit slow. Then went past baggage claim and to customs. Quickly handed card to guy at podium and then on to security.
As usual had to remove all but my clothes, they passed metal detector. Then they had to scan my bag twice, then wanted to search it. I asked what they were looking for in the hopes of not having them unpack entire bag. She said a key chain. Told them where, but was deep down and needed to be unpacked a bit. Then the stupid bitch proceeds to look at every single item in the bag and comment how nice it looks.
After this fiasco, walked upstairs, consulted board only to find my flight is delayed 2 hours. Sat down after finding gate and wrote in here.
Figures, worst service and circus is in the US. Remind me to never fly into D.C. again except to visit, and even then might be easier to go to Philadelphia and drive down!
Flight delay was due to plane leaving Mexico late?? Kind of bad management. While there heard one flight change gates twice. [2019 NOTE: My last flight was on United Airlines.]
Flight finally took off. Was a fairly bumpy take off and a few spots of first hour. For once I fell asleep for most the flight. Woke a few times for just a moment or two. Did not have deep sleep, but down enough that time passed.
Landed in Phoenix, caught bus to parking area, found car. Cost $150 for parking, then drove home.
Emptied luggage and only then noticed that at some point I lost my small Tut mask statue. Figure it was either while packing up in Cairo, repacking at Cairo airport, when I pulled jacket out in Vienna, or when D.C. bitch was exploring my luggage.
It was only $10 worth, but still kind of pissed as that was the piece I had bought to take to work.
Finally went to bed about 2 or 3 a.m.
Next day slept till 1:00 p.m. Now life goes back to normal. Signing off......
Day 14 - November 24th, 2007 - Egypt to Austria
Was up at 5:00 a.m. Got ready and double checked bags and made sure things were where I wanted them. Took a couple aspirin to head off the headache I felt coming and then sat and relaxed a bit.
Went down and checked out of room. They told me doorman could hail a taxi for me, so possible another will show up at 6? Oh well, they make it too confusing, so they can deal with it.
Taxi pulled up. I put bags in rear with me. Total fare would be 95 Egyptian pounds. Ride only took about 15 minutes. Only one slow down traffic wise and that was from a film crew that had half a bridge over the rail yard blocked off.
Arrived at airport, gave driver 100 Egyptian pounds and told him to keep the 5. Went inside and now I am confused. No signs about where to check in with the airline. Security is before the ticket agents. Checked flight board and it was still too early for my flight to show up.
Used toilet then stopped at small cafe and had a Pepsi and an eclair (22 Egyptian pounds). Almost out of Egyptian pounds now. Will just keep the rest. Will sit here till about 7ish, then check flight board again. Will not pass security till I see the flight confirmed there, hopefully to avoid confusion.
About 7:30ish I decided to go into security as the lines were getting longer. Waited in a mess of people to get into security section (I should mention that the concept of a linear queue does not exist here). Once in, went through security checkpoint, bag x-ray, metal detector and check of passport and ticket.
Next stood in a sort of line to check in with airline. This was a slow process and two guys in line next to me were about to come to blows over something. Total chaos.
At counter did the usual check of passport, asked about bag check and then printed boarding pass and initial exit card.
Next stood in a sort of line for passport control. Again checked passport, visa, ticket. Stamped those and filled in data on exit card.
Next was the gates. First I went up stairs, near the cafes and lounges to use toilets.
Tipped guy 5 Egyptian pounds and then sat around reading a book for about 1 hour. Went down stairs about 9:30 to gate 7. Was just a crowd outside security checkpoint (again) next to a cafe. Stood in corner out of way as my flight was not yet boarding.
About 15 minutes and they started to board flight to Vienna. Security was x-ray, metal detector, pat down and passport/ticket check. This brought us to waiting room. Sat for about 45 minutes. They started boarding then. Waited in line in no order to give boarding pass to guy who checked it and tore off stub. Then walked to door, guard checked stub and passport yet again.
Once out door, we loaded onto a bus that when full drove us out to plane waiting on tarmac. They checked stub again, then let us on stairs to plane. Once on board, put bag in overhead and found seat.
This ended being an Egypt Air flight and plane. Not the same flight number as my original Egypt Air operated Austrian Airlines flight. Plane is crowded and full. Before take off had to listen to some whining, crying brat behind me, in Arabic of all things. Be so glad to get off this plane, also getting a bit of turbulence. Long flight this will be.
Lunch was served about 30 minutes into flight. Had roll with butter, cheese, roast beef, rice with veggies, an olive from salad, a cheesecake, Coke and hot tea. Not too bad, though not the best. Swiss Air still has best meals so far, but Egypt Air is up there with United at least.
Have to say that I am surprised by Egypt Air, a bit better planes, service, and food than expected. Now if they could just make the actual airport experience better.
Trying to read early log entries, but motion headache is already bad enough. Watching the program on TV, but without headphones, get what is going on, it is a TV documentary about the finding of Hatshepsut's mummy which I read in the planes magazine prior to take off.
It is hot in here, but thankfully I have an aisle seat, so trips to the toilet will be easier and can learn out a bit for room (though service carts are going up and down right now).
Spent flight just getting by, could not sleep, but did manage to close eyes and rest. Watched the latest Die Hard movie after resting, thought without sound. Amazing how much you can figure out.
Plane finally landed in Vienna. After getting off plane had a long walk up jet way. At top were 2 guards checking passports, though so quickly, not sure what they were actually looking for.
Inside gate area followed signs for exit. That took me down stairs to passport control. Took 10 seconds and I was through that. Next was a long walk to baggage claim area and through customs which like most airports was devoid of people. [2019 NOTE: There was no one in customs when I arrived in Cairo either, and a trip to the UK a few years previously had also had an empty customs counter.]
Finally exited into terminal and then followed signs for the CAT train that runs into the city center. had to go down another level, then found the ticket kiosk. Cost for a one way ticket is 9 Euro. Tried to use cash, but machine does not take 20 Euro bills. Had to use credit card (I had exchanged $200 for 110 Euro after doing passport stop.)
Went down and waited for about 10 minutes for train, then another 10 before train left. Train takes 16 minutes to reach city center. Train was nice and roomy, and so quiet on the straight that could not even feel movement. Only on turns did it make noise and vibrate some.
*Note while waiting for train, repacked pockets and dropped big shark tooth and broke it. Just my luck. Hopefully can glue it back together.*
Arrived at Vien Mitte Station and found way out of station. It was cold outdoors. Pulled jacket from my bags and hat so I was more comfortable. Had picked up small center area map of city and used it to find my way to hotel.
The Royal Hotel was nice. Check in went quick and easy. Room was on 9th floor, the highest with rooms. 10th floor is rooftop restaurant.
Room was very nice, did some unpacking, changed into t-shirt so main shirt could dry out. Got camera out and checked out map.
Headed out and walked around corner. Stephenplatz Cathedral is right behind hotel. Also noticed street was a pedestrian only setup with lots of shops along it.
Bought a hot dog for 3 Euro from a vendor to hold me over till dinner. Walked back toward hotel via different streets and saw more buildings, statues and even an old building foundation built in Roman times.
Finally found another street of shops that lead back to hotel. Once there I thought about eating at some pizza place, but decided to wait. Went into shop and bought a t-shirt for 20 Euro as a souvenir.
Then walked back down street of shops watching some of the street artists. Reminds me of London with all the people performing.
Walked for a bit, then went back to hotel to drop off shirt and camera. Went back out to see about pizza place, but decided to go to place on hotel roof. More expensive, but close to room as my knee is really hurting for some reason. Went to room, grabbed this book and went up to roof. Place was a bit to fancy, menu was limited.
Ordered a cream of tomato soup and lamb ravioli. Also had bread/butter and a bottle of mineral water. Chef also gave a gift of a small sample of some new veal dish. It was okay. The soup was good, ravioli was okay. Prices were a bit high, even worse when converted back to USD. But then not sure when I will be back, so might as well enjoy. Will have to see if they have a bar here and try it later this evening. Otherwise will just watch TV or read.
Vienna is nice, would require a whole week on its own to really appreciate it. Will have to plan for that someday.
Fell asleep as soon as I laid down and slept till early in the night.
Went down and checked out of room. They told me doorman could hail a taxi for me, so possible another will show up at 6? Oh well, they make it too confusing, so they can deal with it.
Taxi pulled up. I put bags in rear with me. Total fare would be 95 Egyptian pounds. Ride only took about 15 minutes. Only one slow down traffic wise and that was from a film crew that had half a bridge over the rail yard blocked off.
Arrived at airport, gave driver 100 Egyptian pounds and told him to keep the 5. Went inside and now I am confused. No signs about where to check in with the airline. Security is before the ticket agents. Checked flight board and it was still too early for my flight to show up.
Used toilet then stopped at small cafe and had a Pepsi and an eclair (22 Egyptian pounds). Almost out of Egyptian pounds now. Will just keep the rest. Will sit here till about 7ish, then check flight board again. Will not pass security till I see the flight confirmed there, hopefully to avoid confusion.
About 7:30ish I decided to go into security as the lines were getting longer. Waited in a mess of people to get into security section (I should mention that the concept of a linear queue does not exist here). Once in, went through security checkpoint, bag x-ray, metal detector and check of passport and ticket.
Next stood in a sort of line to check in with airline. This was a slow process and two guys in line next to me were about to come to blows over something. Total chaos.
At counter did the usual check of passport, asked about bag check and then printed boarding pass and initial exit card.
Next stood in a sort of line for passport control. Again checked passport, visa, ticket. Stamped those and filled in data on exit card.
Next was the gates. First I went up stairs, near the cafes and lounges to use toilets.
Tipped guy 5 Egyptian pounds and then sat around reading a book for about 1 hour. Went down stairs about 9:30 to gate 7. Was just a crowd outside security checkpoint (again) next to a cafe. Stood in corner out of way as my flight was not yet boarding.
About 15 minutes and they started to board flight to Vienna. Security was x-ray, metal detector, pat down and passport/ticket check. This brought us to waiting room. Sat for about 45 minutes. They started boarding then. Waited in line in no order to give boarding pass to guy who checked it and tore off stub. Then walked to door, guard checked stub and passport yet again.
Once out door, we loaded onto a bus that when full drove us out to plane waiting on tarmac. They checked stub again, then let us on stairs to plane. Once on board, put bag in overhead and found seat.
This ended being an Egypt Air flight and plane. Not the same flight number as my original Egypt Air operated Austrian Airlines flight. Plane is crowded and full. Before take off had to listen to some whining, crying brat behind me, in Arabic of all things. Be so glad to get off this plane, also getting a bit of turbulence. Long flight this will be.
Lunch was served about 30 minutes into flight. Had roll with butter, cheese, roast beef, rice with veggies, an olive from salad, a cheesecake, Coke and hot tea. Not too bad, though not the best. Swiss Air still has best meals so far, but Egypt Air is up there with United at least.
Have to say that I am surprised by Egypt Air, a bit better planes, service, and food than expected. Now if they could just make the actual airport experience better.
Trying to read early log entries, but motion headache is already bad enough. Watching the program on TV, but without headphones, get what is going on, it is a TV documentary about the finding of Hatshepsut's mummy which I read in the planes magazine prior to take off.
It is hot in here, but thankfully I have an aisle seat, so trips to the toilet will be easier and can learn out a bit for room (though service carts are going up and down right now).
Spent flight just getting by, could not sleep, but did manage to close eyes and rest. Watched the latest Die Hard movie after resting, thought without sound. Amazing how much you can figure out.
Plane finally landed in Vienna. After getting off plane had a long walk up jet way. At top were 2 guards checking passports, though so quickly, not sure what they were actually looking for.
Inside gate area followed signs for exit. That took me down stairs to passport control. Took 10 seconds and I was through that. Next was a long walk to baggage claim area and through customs which like most airports was devoid of people. [2019 NOTE: There was no one in customs when I arrived in Cairo either, and a trip to the UK a few years previously had also had an empty customs counter.]
Finally exited into terminal and then followed signs for the CAT train that runs into the city center. had to go down another level, then found the ticket kiosk. Cost for a one way ticket is 9 Euro. Tried to use cash, but machine does not take 20 Euro bills. Had to use credit card (I had exchanged $200 for 110 Euro after doing passport stop.)
Went down and waited for about 10 minutes for train, then another 10 before train left. Train takes 16 minutes to reach city center. Train was nice and roomy, and so quiet on the straight that could not even feel movement. Only on turns did it make noise and vibrate some.
*Note while waiting for train, repacked pockets and dropped big shark tooth and broke it. Just my luck. Hopefully can glue it back together.*
Arrived at Vien Mitte Station and found way out of station. It was cold outdoors. Pulled jacket from my bags and hat so I was more comfortable. Had picked up small center area map of city and used it to find my way to hotel.
The Royal Hotel was nice. Check in went quick and easy. Room was on 9th floor, the highest with rooms. 10th floor is rooftop restaurant.
Room was very nice, did some unpacking, changed into t-shirt so main shirt could dry out. Got camera out and checked out map.
Headed out and walked around corner. Stephenplatz Cathedral is right behind hotel. Also noticed street was a pedestrian only setup with lots of shops along it.
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| Stephenplatz Cathedral |
Walked all the way to end near an opera house. Walked around it and along main road till near Hofburg. Took photos of statues and buildings. Then went into Volks Park and crossed it.
*Note while near park, was approached by 2 guys selling tickets to an opera, but it was at palace across town and to pricey for me.*
Took photos of more buildings I will have to ID later. Then walked to the Rathausplatz. There was a holiday event going on and I walked through it while photographing building.
*Note while near park, was approached by 2 guys selling tickets to an opera, but it was at palace across town and to pricey for me.*
Took photos of more buildings I will have to ID later. Then walked to the Rathausplatz. There was a holiday event going on and I walked through it while photographing building.
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| Rathaus |
Bought a hot dog for 3 Euro from a vendor to hold me over till dinner. Walked back toward hotel via different streets and saw more buildings, statues and even an old building foundation built in Roman times.
Finally found another street of shops that lead back to hotel. Once there I thought about eating at some pizza place, but decided to wait. Went into shop and bought a t-shirt for 20 Euro as a souvenir.
Then walked back down street of shops watching some of the street artists. Reminds me of London with all the people performing.
Walked for a bit, then went back to hotel to drop off shirt and camera. Went back out to see about pizza place, but decided to go to place on hotel roof. More expensive, but close to room as my knee is really hurting for some reason. Went to room, grabbed this book and went up to roof. Place was a bit to fancy, menu was limited.
Ordered a cream of tomato soup and lamb ravioli. Also had bread/butter and a bottle of mineral water. Chef also gave a gift of a small sample of some new veal dish. It was okay. The soup was good, ravioli was okay. Prices were a bit high, even worse when converted back to USD. But then not sure when I will be back, so might as well enjoy. Will have to see if they have a bar here and try it later this evening. Otherwise will just watch TV or read.
Vienna is nice, would require a whole week on its own to really appreciate it. Will have to plan for that someday.
Fell asleep as soon as I laid down and slept till early in the night.
Day 13 - November 23rd, 2007 - Cairo
Woke early to see sunrise, but was so hazy out that I could barely see the water of the Nile. Went back to sleep and finally got out of bed about 9ish. Got dressed and sat and read small newspaper that had been slid under my door.
Went down to lobby to arrange taxi pickup at 6:00 a.m. next day for ride to airport. Then walked around shops on main level. Bought a t-shirt at one shop for 45 Egyptian pounds. Took it back to room, then left to go to Hard Rock Cafe.
Walk was not too bad, though was bothered by 2 people wanting me to come to their shop and another group just making small talk.
Went down to lobby to arrange taxi pickup at 6:00 a.m. next day for ride to airport. Then walked around shops on main level. Bought a t-shirt at one shop for 45 Egyptian pounds. Took it back to room, then left to go to Hard Rock Cafe.
Walk was not too bad, though was bothered by 2 people wanting me to come to their shop and another group just making small talk.
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| Walking across the main channel of the Nile on bridge. |
Arrived at Grand Hyatt Hotel, found Hard Rock entrance and went past security. The Cafe was not open yet, but the store was. Went into store, bought a t-shirt, key chain, and a hat for M. Hansen. [2019 NOTE: A co-worker who asked me to pick him up a Hard Rock hat.] (200 pounds for t-shirt, 120 pounds for key chain and 100 pounds for hat.) They did not have a polo shirt at this one, only non-t-shirt was a long sleeve white denim dress shirt that I did not like. Oh Well.
They let me sit at the bar while I was waiting for kitchen to open. Got a Coke and later ordered the nachos and chicken cajun sandwich. Ate them at the bar while watching the video screens. This place got really busy really fast!
Like the idiot I am, forgot to give my All Access card to the store, hoping they can add it on afterwards. Will at least get the meal credit on there.
Paid for meal and they used my All Access card for a 10% discount instead of giving credit on card? Oh well, gave me something in return. I had to wait for a bit while they found a manager, so the girl running the bar gave me a hot tea on the house. Nice of her, but was a bit too warm today for hot tea. Drank half, and when I left, she was offering to put the rest in a carry out cup. I thanked her, but said no.
Walked back to hotel with the usual 3 or 4 people trying to get me in a taxi or shop. One offered to take me around. What I am not sure? Back in hotel I laid down to cool off and fell asleep for about 3 hours. Woke up a bit after 5:00 p.m. Not sure, but will probably walk over to KFC tonight. Then will see if there are any shops to spend last 200 Egyptian pounds. It is less than $40, so not worth the time to sell back. Will just spend it, or take it home.
This day seems like such a waste. While I did get my Hard Rock visit, and some much needed rest, kind of seems like an anti-climatic end to a wonderful trip. I guess I still have Vienna, though with the cold, not sure what all I will get done there. [2019 NOTE: My return flights to the USA included a 22 hour layover in Vienna, Austria.]
Decided I was not that hungry and that I would only eat if that was best way to get rid of Egyptian money. Went down to main level and looked around another shop. Some nice items, but nothing that jumped out at me. Walked into other tower of hotel to bookstore. Found a book on Egyptian Gods that looked nice and a few old 1800's lithograph reprints that would make nice framed art. Bought them and came back to room.
Re-packed bag which is now a bit heavy and arranged things for the morning. Set alarm for 5:00 a.m. so should be able to be downstairs at 6:00 a.m. Leaving so early should allow me to avoid worst of traffic and have plenty of time at airport for check in and security. Overheard a conversation that you pass 2 security points, so could take some time.
Hopefully things go smooth and I have a nice flight to Vienna. For now will just watch TV or read and then go to bed early.
They let me sit at the bar while I was waiting for kitchen to open. Got a Coke and later ordered the nachos and chicken cajun sandwich. Ate them at the bar while watching the video screens. This place got really busy really fast!
Like the idiot I am, forgot to give my All Access card to the store, hoping they can add it on afterwards. Will at least get the meal credit on there.
Paid for meal and they used my All Access card for a 10% discount instead of giving credit on card? Oh well, gave me something in return. I had to wait for a bit while they found a manager, so the girl running the bar gave me a hot tea on the house. Nice of her, but was a bit too warm today for hot tea. Drank half, and when I left, she was offering to put the rest in a carry out cup. I thanked her, but said no.
Walked back to hotel with the usual 3 or 4 people trying to get me in a taxi or shop. One offered to take me around. What I am not sure? Back in hotel I laid down to cool off and fell asleep for about 3 hours. Woke up a bit after 5:00 p.m. Not sure, but will probably walk over to KFC tonight. Then will see if there are any shops to spend last 200 Egyptian pounds. It is less than $40, so not worth the time to sell back. Will just spend it, or take it home.
This day seems like such a waste. While I did get my Hard Rock visit, and some much needed rest, kind of seems like an anti-climatic end to a wonderful trip. I guess I still have Vienna, though with the cold, not sure what all I will get done there. [2019 NOTE: My return flights to the USA included a 22 hour layover in Vienna, Austria.]
Decided I was not that hungry and that I would only eat if that was best way to get rid of Egyptian money. Went down to main level and looked around another shop. Some nice items, but nothing that jumped out at me. Walked into other tower of hotel to bookstore. Found a book on Egyptian Gods that looked nice and a few old 1800's lithograph reprints that would make nice framed art. Bought them and came back to room.
Re-packed bag which is now a bit heavy and arranged things for the morning. Set alarm for 5:00 a.m. so should be able to be downstairs at 6:00 a.m. Leaving so early should allow me to avoid worst of traffic and have plenty of time at airport for check in and security. Overheard a conversation that you pass 2 security points, so could take some time.
Hopefully things go smooth and I have a nice flight to Vienna. For now will just watch TV or read and then go to bed early.
Day 12 - November 22nd, 2007 - Sahara Desert to Cairo
Woke early as sky was starting to lighten up. Got camera and headed back up rock outcropping. I took a different route this time. Not sure if it was the cold air, lack of good sleep or what, but the climb took a lot out of me, was really gasping near the top.
Found a spot near the flat top, but not on it. Had a great view of the sun rising.
After that I climbed down and took more photos of rocks and dunes.
Finally walked back to camp and just like last nights sunset, the falcon of Horus came across the sky and over the suns disk. This place is somewhat magical. I could spend a week here doing nothing and leave feeling full.
Back at camp I had a cup of hot tea and then breakfast was served. Pita bread, various toppings (I just used the white cheese) and an egg omelet.
While the guide and driver ate, I wrote in here.
After breakfast was done, I walked up one of the nearby dunes and sat and played with the sand while the others took down the camp.
When done we started back. Going was tough at first, at one point with the truck in 4 low, it was just creeping along in the sand. We actually got out of the truck and walked along with it till it started to get better traction.
Once back to the road we headed up the hill. Stopped for a bit with a view of the Lower Rayan lake. Found some more coin like rocks to keep.
Once down we headed back to car. I stopped to use toilet (had to go #2) and found they were the kind of toilet that is just a small hole in floor that you squat over!!! That and no toilet paper made for a very ugly and disgusting event, but had no choice.
After that "experience" we drove on toward Cairo. Around the lake shore of Lake Qarun we got caught in a big traffic jam up near a local market. Took forever to get out.
The trip back was normal. Did get a nice view of the Giza pyramids from road. Traffic in town was busy as usual. Asked them to drop me off at the Sheraton so I would not have to walk the 2 blocks with my bags.
Found the reception desk. Then took a bit of time to condense everything into the bags.
Got checked in and found room. On the 13th floor looking south and also in the corner. So had a good view to the east as well. Could see the Nile with ease and even had a view of the Giza pyramids and also those at Saqqara way in the distance.
Spent the hour watching some movie on TV. Then walked across the bridge to the El Gizerah Hotel where the Buddha Bar is located. Got there just before 6:00 p.m. only to find they do not open till 7:00 p.m. Spent the hour walking and sitting along the rivers edge on the hotel garden. Also spent the last of that hour on the 3rd floor overlook of the main lobby listening to the string quartet playing classical music.
Finally got into the Buddha Bar. Place looks really nice, 2 stories, lounge up top, dining down below. Giant Buddha statue rising both levels high. Had to wait just a few moments to get seated.
Was sat near a window so could watch the Nile go past. Ordered a bottle of Evian water (35 Egyptian pounds) and drank just that. Had calamari (120 Egyptian pounds) and wok cooked beef with basil (140 Egyptian pounds). For dessert a chocolate fudge cake with hazelnut topping (60 Egyptian pounds). Final bill was 438 Egyptian pounds. OUCH! Left an 11 Egyptian pound tip. Low, but service was overly attentive, bothered me having 3-4 people standing watch while I ate. While it was a nice place, food was excellent, music good, I felt let down overall. Not sure what I expected? The cost was really high. The food is all Asian, with a large sushi selection.
After paying my bill, I stopped in a little shop to see what the CD's cost. Way too much - 375 Egyptian pounds. Almost twice what I pay in the states.
Left and walked back to the hotel Sheraton. Changed and wrote in here before watching TV and going to bed. Nice to have an evening with no rushing around or early wake up the next day. Though I already miss the company I had gotten used to while with the tour group.
Oh, today was Thanksgiving, so now that I recall that, the cost of dinner is not so bad.
*Note more curiosity on the driving in Egypt. Many drive with no headlights in town, only flashing them to alert other cars or at blind intersections. Kind of strange, but again the system seems to work.*
*Note on the differences of water taxi's between Cairo and those in towns of upper Egypt. While the boats in Luxor and Aswan were simple, only having some paint designs, nice cushions and a few things hanging from the roof, the boats in Cairo have all that plus lots of decorative lights, signs and loud music playing. Shows the difference in lifestyles between the regions.*
Found a spot near the flat top, but not on it. Had a great view of the sun rising.
After that I climbed down and took more photos of rocks and dunes.
Finally walked back to camp and just like last nights sunset, the falcon of Horus came across the sky and over the suns disk. This place is somewhat magical. I could spend a week here doing nothing and leave feeling full.
Back at camp I had a cup of hot tea and then breakfast was served. Pita bread, various toppings (I just used the white cheese) and an egg omelet.
While the guide and driver ate, I wrote in here.
After breakfast was done, I walked up one of the nearby dunes and sat and played with the sand while the others took down the camp.
When done we started back. Going was tough at first, at one point with the truck in 4 low, it was just creeping along in the sand. We actually got out of the truck and walked along with it till it started to get better traction.
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| Yes, it is moving. No, no one is at the wheel. |
The ride back was really rough and some nice areas to get over.
Once back to the road we headed up the hill. Stopped for a bit with a view of the Lower Rayan lake. Found some more coin like rocks to keep.
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| Lower Rayan lake. |
*While on rocks near camp I found a large coin like rock, fossil nautilus, chunk of mica that I snuck into bag to take home.*
We drove down to the water falls between the lakes. Walk from lot to falls is about 1/2 mile. The locals go out into the desert and find fossil shark teeth. They sell them to tourists. Supposed to be legal, but not sure. Went ahead and bought 2 teeth for 100 Egyptian pounds. The guy then came up later and gifted me a third.
The water falls were small, only about 10-20 feet. The farthest I could not see well and did not want to fight crossing the stream to get to it. The near falls was a double. Not a bad one, just not a fantastic one.
We drove down to the water falls between the lakes. Walk from lot to falls is about 1/2 mile. The locals go out into the desert and find fossil shark teeth. They sell them to tourists. Supposed to be legal, but not sure. Went ahead and bought 2 teeth for 100 Egyptian pounds. The guy then came up later and gifted me a third.
The water falls were small, only about 10-20 feet. The farthest I could not see well and did not want to fight crossing the stream to get to it. The near falls was a double. Not a bad one, just not a fantastic one.
Once down we headed back to car. I stopped to use toilet (had to go #2) and found they were the kind of toilet that is just a small hole in floor that you squat over!!! That and no toilet paper made for a very ugly and disgusting event, but had no choice.
After that "experience" we drove on toward Cairo. Around the lake shore of Lake Qarun we got caught in a big traffic jam up near a local market. Took forever to get out.
The trip back was normal. Did get a nice view of the Giza pyramids from road. Traffic in town was busy as usual. Asked them to drop me off at the Sheraton so I would not have to walk the 2 blocks with my bags.
Found the reception desk. Then took a bit of time to condense everything into the bags.
Got checked in and found room. On the 13th floor looking south and also in the corner. So had a good view to the east as well. Could see the Nile with ease and even had a view of the Giza pyramids and also those at Saqqara way in the distance.
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| View looking southeast from hotel balcony. |
Took a good shower and washed everything that I had been wearing in the desert. Put them out on the balcony to dry and then cleaned the sand out of the camera and bag. Repacked main bag, ate my Pringles left over from Alexandria and then wrote in here.
Laid down on bed to stretch out and fell asleep. Down for about an hour. Woke up and checked on clothes. They were dry (except socks). Brought them in and then took a few sunset photos. Once sun was down, I put on pants and shirt and got things ready to go out to dinner. Will leave in about an hour and walk across to the island and go to the Buddha Bar.
Laid down on bed to stretch out and fell asleep. Down for about an hour. Woke up and checked on clothes. They were dry (except socks). Brought them in and then took a few sunset photos. Once sun was down, I put on pants and shirt and got things ready to go out to dinner. Will leave in about an hour and walk across to the island and go to the Buddha Bar.
Spent the hour watching some movie on TV. Then walked across the bridge to the El Gizerah Hotel where the Buddha Bar is located. Got there just before 6:00 p.m. only to find they do not open till 7:00 p.m. Spent the hour walking and sitting along the rivers edge on the hotel garden. Also spent the last of that hour on the 3rd floor overlook of the main lobby listening to the string quartet playing classical music.
Finally got into the Buddha Bar. Place looks really nice, 2 stories, lounge up top, dining down below. Giant Buddha statue rising both levels high. Had to wait just a few moments to get seated.
Was sat near a window so could watch the Nile go past. Ordered a bottle of Evian water (35 Egyptian pounds) and drank just that. Had calamari (120 Egyptian pounds) and wok cooked beef with basil (140 Egyptian pounds). For dessert a chocolate fudge cake with hazelnut topping (60 Egyptian pounds). Final bill was 438 Egyptian pounds. OUCH! Left an 11 Egyptian pound tip. Low, but service was overly attentive, bothered me having 3-4 people standing watch while I ate. While it was a nice place, food was excellent, music good, I felt let down overall. Not sure what I expected? The cost was really high. The food is all Asian, with a large sushi selection.
After paying my bill, I stopped in a little shop to see what the CD's cost. Way too much - 375 Egyptian pounds. Almost twice what I pay in the states.
Left and walked back to the hotel Sheraton. Changed and wrote in here before watching TV and going to bed. Nice to have an evening with no rushing around or early wake up the next day. Though I already miss the company I had gotten used to while with the tour group.
Oh, today was Thanksgiving, so now that I recall that, the cost of dinner is not so bad.
*Note more curiosity on the driving in Egypt. Many drive with no headlights in town, only flashing them to alert other cars or at blind intersections. Kind of strange, but again the system seems to work.*
*Note on the differences of water taxi's between Cairo and those in towns of upper Egypt. While the boats in Luxor and Aswan were simple, only having some paint designs, nice cushions and a few things hanging from the roof, the boats in Cairo have all that plus lots of decorative lights, signs and loud music playing. Shows the difference in lifestyles between the regions.*
Day 11 - November 21st, 2007 - Cairo to Sahara Desert
Woke up early at 6:30 a.m. Got ready and went down to have breakfast with some of the group that was going to Alexandria today. Met Sami in the hall on way down and gave him a $30 tip for his time.
After breakfast, saw the group off to Alexandria, and then talked for a minute to Georgia. Her and Saul were headed to airport to continue their travels in Turkey.
I walked down to the Sheraton and exchanged another $200. This should last me the remainder of my trip with luck.
Back at the hotel I took a few pictures from room balcony, then came down to lobby to write and maybe see a few more members of the group.
Went back to room after a bit and packed. Then walked over to market to buy some bottles of water. Sat around room and relaxed while battery for camera charges.
Checked out of room and desert guide was waiting at desk. Got into a Toyota Land Cruiser and drove out of Cairo. Drove past Giza pyramids. Stopped to buy supplies and again for fuel. [2019 NOTE: I had booked a desert extension that started at the end of the main tour. This would be a solo trip with the guide and support staff.]
Then headed out of town toward El Fayoum. Just north of Fayoum turned onto Lake Qarun road. Drove by along south shore of lake till we reached Wadi Rayan Protected Area. Guide got our admission, then we drove along a small blacktop through nothing but desert sand and rock. Saw both upper and lower lakes of Rayan. Turned onto dirt road that took us 30 kilometers back into desert.
Lunch was a simple deal. Potato chips, sliced tomatoes, a tuna and tomato dish, salty cheese and tomato dish, feta cheese and pita bread. Water to drink. Afterward some hot tea.
We then walked over and looked at camels. He discussed the history of the park and then we walked to the info hut. After reading the signs, we walked up the former road and looked at about 6 skeleton structures. All but one had been moved to this area from farther in the valley.
Once back to the parking area, used toilet and then we were off to the overnight camp spot. This area is known as Al Qusr. It is about 30 minutes by 4x4 off the main road by crossing open desert. We bounced over small dunes and former truck tracks. Climbed a hill for a great panoramic view of the camp spot between two large rock outcroppings.
As I approached the camp site I came down off the dune to preserve an area for sunset photos and maybe moonlight (should be a 3/4 moon tonight). I then stopped at the camp and poured the sand out of my shoes. Drank a cup of Coke and then wrote in here while still taking a few photos.
After a short wait I walked out onto the dunes again. This time the wind was really blowing and it was rapidly cooling off. I followed the dune to one of the large rock outcrops and climbed the massive dune to the top. I would guess 200-300 feet above the desert floor. The views around were even higher up.
The sun sets in a fiery orange sea of low clouds over a sea of dunes and rock cliffs.
The falcon god Horus appears above the suns disk and soars across the sky wheeling around.
As the Sun's disk touches the hills it appears to split into many rays.
Slowly it sinks into the desert leaving only an orange red sky and dark shadows on the clouds, rocks and dunes.
Once the sun had set, I climbed down off the dunes and walked back to camp. Dinner is cooking and then I will see if the clouds will clear enough to allow the moon to dust the dunes with its rays.
Dinner was lentil soup and a potato and tomato dish with small hot dogs in it. Drank water, cola.
After the first course I tried to get some moon photos, but did not work.
After the final dish I walked about 200 feet out into the desert down from the camp. Took a few photos of cliffs in moonlight, but not sure they will turn out. Possibly out of focus. [2019 NOTE: They did not turn out] I then sat and just lost myself in the semi-darkness, cool air, cool sand and quiet (some noise from camp, but wind sound muffled it.) Finally walked back to camp and had some hot hibiscus tea.
They had started a fire in camp, but the smoke was drawn into the wind screen setup. It made my eyes burn and I could not breathe very good. As it got close to 8 or 9 p.m. we all turned in.
I opted to sleep on the outside edge, most exposed to the open space, wind and cold. It did not get as cold as I had feared, though I am happy I brought this pullover instead of the wind jacket. I woke twice at least in mid night to attend to natures call. Just walk out into the sand about 30 feet, dig out a small hole with foot. Go and re-cover.
After breakfast, saw the group off to Alexandria, and then talked for a minute to Georgia. Her and Saul were headed to airport to continue their travels in Turkey.
I walked down to the Sheraton and exchanged another $200. This should last me the remainder of my trip with luck.
Back at the hotel I took a few pictures from room balcony, then came down to lobby to write and maybe see a few more members of the group.
Went back to room after a bit and packed. Then walked over to market to buy some bottles of water. Sat around room and relaxed while battery for camera charges.
Checked out of room and desert guide was waiting at desk. Got into a Toyota Land Cruiser and drove out of Cairo. Drove past Giza pyramids. Stopped to buy supplies and again for fuel. [2019 NOTE: I had booked a desert extension that started at the end of the main tour. This would be a solo trip with the guide and support staff.]
Then headed out of town toward El Fayoum. Just north of Fayoum turned onto Lake Qarun road. Drove by along south shore of lake till we reached Wadi Rayan Protected Area. Guide got our admission, then we drove along a small blacktop through nothing but desert sand and rock. Saw both upper and lower lakes of Rayan. Turned onto dirt road that took us 30 kilometers back into desert.
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| Lake Qarun |
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| Checking into the Wadi Rayan Protected Area. |
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| Desert track to Wadi el-Hitan. |
Arrived at Wadi el-Hitan about noon. A small area has been built with a cafe, toilets, camels to ride and tourism stuff.
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| Cafe area at Wadi el-Hitan where we prepared and ate lunch. |
We decided to have lunch first. I sat in the open air part of the cafe while they took in supplies to make lunch. While writing this I noticed a find dust of sand constantly blowing and collecting on everything. Will need to be extra cautious with camera out there and avoid lens changes if possible. Even this page has a fine grit on it. This is the edge of the Sahara, and already it is making you feel small.
Lunch was a simple deal. Potato chips, sliced tomatoes, a tuna and tomato dish, salty cheese and tomato dish, feta cheese and pita bread. Water to drink. Afterward some hot tea.
We then walked over and looked at camels. He discussed the history of the park and then we walked to the info hut. After reading the signs, we walked up the former road and looked at about 6 skeleton structures. All but one had been moved to this area from farther in the valley.
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| 40 million year old whale fossil found in area. |
We climbed up a small rock formation for a wide panorama of the valley.
Once back to the parking area, used toilet and then we were off to the overnight camp spot. This area is known as Al Qusr. It is about 30 minutes by 4x4 off the main road by crossing open desert. We bounced over small dunes and former truck tracks. Climbed a hill for a great panoramic view of the camp spot between two large rock outcroppings.
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| Camp will be between the two rock outcrops in distance. |
They let me out of the truck about 2 miles from camp to walk along the top of the large sand dune running to the rocks. This was an amazing experience. The sun to my right side, the wind blowing from behind me at a good gust. Clouds creating shadows upon the ground. No sound other than the wind and my clothes flapping. Not a man made structure in sight except the tracks in the sand showing a truck had drove by here. Way ahead I could see where the truck had stopped.
The walk took about 45 minutes. The change of light and shadow at the crest of the dune is incredible. The sand was loose in spots and made walking on the steep dune side tricky. I found the sand on the windward side was more packed so tried to stay there. Also tried to disturb the crest as little as possible. Even then my tracks have permanently altered the dune for a few days and may even change how it forms in the future.
The walk took about 45 minutes. The change of light and shadow at the crest of the dune is incredible. The sand was loose in spots and made walking on the steep dune side tricky. I found the sand on the windward side was more packed so tried to stay there. Also tried to disturb the crest as little as possible. Even then my tracks have permanently altered the dune for a few days and may even change how it forms in the future.
As I approached the camp site I came down off the dune to preserve an area for sunset photos and maybe moonlight (should be a 3/4 moon tonight). I then stopped at the camp and poured the sand out of my shoes. Drank a cup of Coke and then wrote in here while still taking a few photos.
After a short wait I walked out onto the dunes again. This time the wind was really blowing and it was rapidly cooling off. I followed the dune to one of the large rock outcrops and climbed the massive dune to the top. I would guess 200-300 feet above the desert floor. The views around were even higher up.
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| On the climb up the rocks. |
I sat on the flat top of the rock and watched the sun set. Words cannot describe this but I will try.
Sitting on rock strewn sandy spot facing the west. The wind blowing with strong gusts in your face. A dust of fine sand hitting your face from time to time. Temperature cooling off.
Sitting on rock strewn sandy spot facing the west. The wind blowing with strong gusts in your face. A dust of fine sand hitting your face from time to time. Temperature cooling off.
The sun sets in a fiery orange sea of low clouds over a sea of dunes and rock cliffs.
The falcon god Horus appears above the suns disk and soars across the sky wheeling around.
As the Sun's disk touches the hills it appears to split into many rays.
Slowly it sinks into the desert leaving only an orange red sky and dark shadows on the clouds, rocks and dunes.
Once the sun had set, I climbed down off the dunes and walked back to camp. Dinner is cooking and then I will see if the clouds will clear enough to allow the moon to dust the dunes with its rays.
Dinner was lentil soup and a potato and tomato dish with small hot dogs in it. Drank water, cola.
After the first course I tried to get some moon photos, but did not work.
After the final dish I walked about 200 feet out into the desert down from the camp. Took a few photos of cliffs in moonlight, but not sure they will turn out. Possibly out of focus. [2019 NOTE: They did not turn out] I then sat and just lost myself in the semi-darkness, cool air, cool sand and quiet (some noise from camp, but wind sound muffled it.) Finally walked back to camp and had some hot hibiscus tea.
They had started a fire in camp, but the smoke was drawn into the wind screen setup. It made my eyes burn and I could not breathe very good. As it got close to 8 or 9 p.m. we all turned in.
I opted to sleep on the outside edge, most exposed to the open space, wind and cold. It did not get as cold as I had feared, though I am happy I brought this pullover instead of the wind jacket. I woke twice at least in mid night to attend to natures call. Just walk out into the sand about 30 feet, dig out a small hole with foot. Go and re-cover.
Day 10 - November 20th, 2007 - Cairo to Alexandria to Cairo
The overnight train was not too good this time. Seats were less comfy and broken, was close to the hall area where the smokers went and the toilets were utterly disgusting. The tracks seem rougher as well. To make things even more fun, in the first 30 minutes the A/C stopped working and took an hour to fix. In that process the power was also out so it was quite dark (which might have been a good thing for some).
I managed to half sleep for a few hours at least. Once the sun came up I too was up. Ate my food from the breakfast box the hotel had prepared before we left. Had some cheese, hard egg, roll with strawberry jam and an orange juice drink. Also got some hot tea from the train staff.
Most the others started to wake up about 2 hours out of Cairo. Arrived at station and got off train. Put our bags aside for porters to take to bus and then went out to bus. Once bags were loaded we got on and went to hotel (The Pharaoh's Hotel again). At the hotel we waited in lobby while bags were brought in, then went to dining area to wait for room keys. The meet time for the trip to Alexandria was 10:45 a.m. Got my room key with just enough time to run my bag up.
We boarded the bus and headed out of town. The trip was long and not too interesting. Stopped briefly for a restroom and smoke break. I went into a little market and bought a can of Pringles (19 Egyptian pounds). We got fuel and then continued on the highway.
As we arrived in the area of Alexandria it started to get overcast and then rain. This and really bad traffic caused us to be at least an hour late into town. We drove through town, saw the coast at the main bay and then drove over to pick up our tour guide.
Our first stop was the Roman era catacomb tombs. These were in a really old, run down section of town that took quite awhile to get into. Once there we were told that cameras could not be used :( . At the gate I found out we cannot even take them in, so had to run back to the bus. Then had to wait in line behind another large group to get in. Finally caught up with my group as they were entering the catacombs. A large spiral stair around a central well took us about 25 feet below ground. We explored the rock hewn tombs for about 30 minutes while the guide explained how they were made and about some of the discoveries made there.
We left the catacombs and looked at a small tomb in a building above ground. After this the guide gave us a choice of what to do. The original tour included the Alexandria Museum. However, due to the late arrival we would not have much time there. So for the same cost we went to the Roman amphitheater and saw it and some of the statues brought up from the ruins of the Pharos Lighthouse. We then went over to the Library of Alexandria and went inside to take some photos and marvel at the wonderful design and feel the essence of all the knowledge. Went outside to take a few exterior pictures and another of the Mediterranean and bay.
I managed to half sleep for a few hours at least. Once the sun came up I too was up. Ate my food from the breakfast box the hotel had prepared before we left. Had some cheese, hard egg, roll with strawberry jam and an orange juice drink. Also got some hot tea from the train staff.
Most the others started to wake up about 2 hours out of Cairo. Arrived at station and got off train. Put our bags aside for porters to take to bus and then went out to bus. Once bags were loaded we got on and went to hotel (The Pharaoh's Hotel again). At the hotel we waited in lobby while bags were brought in, then went to dining area to wait for room keys. The meet time for the trip to Alexandria was 10:45 a.m. Got my room key with just enough time to run my bag up.
We boarded the bus and headed out of town. The trip was long and not too interesting. Stopped briefly for a restroom and smoke break. I went into a little market and bought a can of Pringles (19 Egyptian pounds). We got fuel and then continued on the highway.
As we arrived in the area of Alexandria it started to get overcast and then rain. This and really bad traffic caused us to be at least an hour late into town. We drove through town, saw the coast at the main bay and then drove over to pick up our tour guide.
Our first stop was the Roman era catacomb tombs. These were in a really old, run down section of town that took quite awhile to get into. Once there we were told that cameras could not be used :( . At the gate I found out we cannot even take them in, so had to run back to the bus. Then had to wait in line behind another large group to get in. Finally caught up with my group as they were entering the catacombs. A large spiral stair around a central well took us about 25 feet below ground. We explored the rock hewn tombs for about 30 minutes while the guide explained how they were made and about some of the discoveries made there.
We left the catacombs and looked at a small tomb in a building above ground. After this the guide gave us a choice of what to do. The original tour included the Alexandria Museum. However, due to the late arrival we would not have much time there. So for the same cost we went to the Roman amphitheater and saw it and some of the statues brought up from the ruins of the Pharos Lighthouse. We then went over to the Library of Alexandria and went inside to take some photos and marvel at the wonderful design and feel the essence of all the knowledge. Went outside to take a few exterior pictures and another of the Mediterranean and bay.
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| Roman amphitheater in Alexandria. |
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| Library of Alexandria interior. |
Boarded the bus and drove to a local restaurant called Latino's. It had mostly Mexican and American style foods. Was good. Spent some time talking to some of the other Aussies in the other group. I had a caprese salad and mushroom cheeseburger with fries and bottle of water. Many of the group went over and smoked shisha pipes. All this smoke in the room was making me dizzy.
When everyone was done we paid our checks and got on the bus back to Cairo. Hasan, the other tour leader, did a small speech and asked us what the highlight of the trip was for each of us. Most mentioned various monuments, events we did, or peoples actions at events. For me the highlight was the country itself. You cannot pull just one or two items, they all merge with the others to form an even greater thing.
Once back in Cairo we made our way to the hotel. When I reached the 6th floor where my room was I saw a few of the others from my group out by a room. Talked to them a bit about Alexandria and then went to my room.
Talked for a bit and crashed. Slept soundly most the night.
When everyone was done we paid our checks and got on the bus back to Cairo. Hasan, the other tour leader, did a small speech and asked us what the highlight of the trip was for each of us. Most mentioned various monuments, events we did, or peoples actions at events. For me the highlight was the country itself. You cannot pull just one or two items, they all merge with the others to form an even greater thing.
Once back in Cairo we made our way to the hotel. When I reached the 6th floor where my room was I saw a few of the others from my group out by a room. Talked to them a bit about Alexandria and then went to my room.
Talked for a bit and crashed. Slept soundly most the night.
Day 9 - November 19th, 2007 - Luxor
Awoke at 4:45 a.m. Got ready and packed last stuff. Left pack at door for porters and went to dinning room for breakfast. Had some hot tea, hibiscus tea, feta cheese, white cheese, mashed potatoes and toast with fig jam.
Went back to room to check that I had everything, then met in lobby lounge to wait for bus.
Got on bus and waited while luggage was loaded. We then drove into Luxor and stopped at the hotel we would use just for the day. This was the Tut Hotel. We dropped off luggage and then went outside to meet up with Sami.
He walked us over to the dock on the bank about a mile away. We got into water taxi and went across to the west bank.
A short walk from the docking area and we found the donkeys waiting to take us to the Valley of the Kings.
They assigned us our donkey which we walked up the road a bit. We then mounted and rode out onto the main road. Eventually we went onto a narrow village road and then back to the main road into the valley.
The road winds its way up into a narrow canyon (wadi) and eventually ended at the bus parking lot. It took about 40 minutes to make the trip.
*Note on the donkeys. The animals looked in decent health, but the saddles and reins were poor. I had a difficult time getting on as I was too big for the poor donkey and he moved as I tried. With my camera bag on shoulder, camera around neck and water in one hand, made getting on and controlling the beast difficult. This donkey also had an urgent need to be in front of the others. Each time I slowed him back to the midst of the group, he would soon pick up speed and push to the front. My long legs were only 6 inches off the ground, so had to watch it near curbs and other obstacles. The lack of stirrups made my inner thighs take all the pressure. Overall, while it was an interesting experience, it was not that much fun. We all opted to pay the extra 5 Egyptian pounds to get a bus back out of the valley.*
At the Valley of the Kings we met up with our guide from the day before. He took us into main building and had us wait while he bought tickets. Used the toilet here ($1 tip) and then walked up to main entrance. He showed us where to buy tickets for Tutankhamun's tomb (80 Egyptian pounds). Only Amanda bought one. He lead us to front of line and then once all in the gate we sat under a shade shelter while he talked about the area and explained how the ticket worked.
Our ticket was good for 3 tombs of our choice from those open to the public (except Tutankhamun and Ramesses VI).
He chose the 3 tombs for us to give us the best highlights.
The first was Ramesses IV. This tomb was long, complete and in good condition. It also was steep to get in and out. Again, no photos were allowed :( . But got to see the paintings and the main stone sarcophagus.
The next was Ramesses IX. This tomb was not complete, so saw some of how it was made. The paintings it did have were not as good of condition, but it did have a few good ones. This tomb had one steep area and no sarcophagus (in British Museum).
The next was Ramesses I. Before I went in, I asked the guide if he would be willing to go buy me a ticket for Tutankhamun while I was in this tomb. He agreed. The tomb had a really steep and long descent. Most of it is unpainted and not finished. At the bottom is the only chamber, but the paintings are well done, good condition and unique. After exiting, I found the guide and picked up Tut's ticket.
Tutankhamun's tomb had a short wait to get in. Also had to leave my camera up top. They check it for you at the ticket gate. The entry is steep, but not too long. At the bottom you have the main room which now contains Tut's mummy in a case, but only showing feet and face. [2019 NOTE: This was a new change they had made just a few months prior to my trip, until then his mummy had always been in his sarcophagus and not seen by anyone for decades. Concern over deterioration caused by higher humidity levels due to tourism was the prompt to place it in a climate controlled box in main room.]
The burial chamber wall is gone and you can see the entire chambers paintings. Well preserved, but low quality. Also see the outer stone sarcophagus and one of the inner gold painted ones.
Once out, we walked back to shuttles that run people the 1/2 mile up to the tombs. (We walked on the way up, but rides down are free.) At the entrance the guide showed us some cards we could buy of the tomb walls for 25 Egyptian pounds. I bought one to be delivered later. [2019 NOTE: I believe it is to protect these revenue streams that they started to ban photographs inside most places, especially with the advent of modern high resolution cameras that most people could afford.]
Used the toilet ($1 tip) and then we left through the always present row of shops. Guy had some nice painted figures of Tut's mask, coffin and Nefertiti head. He started at 300 Egyptian pounds. I told him I would give 100. Eventually settled at 120 Egyptian pounds. Then had to fight to get him to stop trying to sell me an ugly rock scarab. I later saw some slight damage to one of them, tried to exchange and he did, but then wanted 20 Egyptian pounds more. I traded them back and walked off.
About then our bus arrived. Boarded it and drove out of the valley. At the main road we met up with the guy who had all the picture cards some of us bought. Paid the guide and we drove on to the Temple of Hatshepsut.
He dropped us at ticket booth, bought tickets and then led us up to the gate. This time he told us a little history of the temple and then we were on our own inside with 45 minutes to use. Took some shots and some of temple next door (closed to public) which was lower down. When done we all met up around the lot and went to bus.
Drove back into village to the docks. I ended up sitting in front cab of van this time, so got some shots of the roads, traffic and village as we went.
We boarded the water taxi and went across to the east bank. We walked back to the hotel and Sami got us the keys to the 3 rooms we had to use for the day. 5 people per room, and that is not nice. Small rooms and no A/C that we could find. I ended up in room with two of the couples. We talked about lunch and then got with others going out. We walked back to the area around Luxor temple and ate at a place called Snack Time. I had a Coke, chicken Shawarma, falafel, and spicy chicken balls. All that for 30 Egyptian pounds. Part of the group had gone elsewhere. I ate with same couples from room and Marshall. We then all walked down to water front so one couple could visit internet cafe. Walked up up to road with Marshall and other couple. On way back to cafe we met up with the girls (Stephanie, Angela, Amanda, Katie and Rebecca).
Went back to room to check that I had everything, then met in lobby lounge to wait for bus.
Got on bus and waited while luggage was loaded. We then drove into Luxor and stopped at the hotel we would use just for the day. This was the Tut Hotel. We dropped off luggage and then went outside to meet up with Sami.
He walked us over to the dock on the bank about a mile away. We got into water taxi and went across to the west bank.
A short walk from the docking area and we found the donkeys waiting to take us to the Valley of the Kings.
They assigned us our donkey which we walked up the road a bit. We then mounted and rode out onto the main road. Eventually we went onto a narrow village road and then back to the main road into the valley.
The road winds its way up into a narrow canyon (wadi) and eventually ended at the bus parking lot. It took about 40 minutes to make the trip.
*Note on the donkeys. The animals looked in decent health, but the saddles and reins were poor. I had a difficult time getting on as I was too big for the poor donkey and he moved as I tried. With my camera bag on shoulder, camera around neck and water in one hand, made getting on and controlling the beast difficult. This donkey also had an urgent need to be in front of the others. Each time I slowed him back to the midst of the group, he would soon pick up speed and push to the front. My long legs were only 6 inches off the ground, so had to watch it near curbs and other obstacles. The lack of stirrups made my inner thighs take all the pressure. Overall, while it was an interesting experience, it was not that much fun. We all opted to pay the extra 5 Egyptian pounds to get a bus back out of the valley.*
At the Valley of the Kings we met up with our guide from the day before. He took us into main building and had us wait while he bought tickets. Used the toilet here ($1 tip) and then walked up to main entrance. He showed us where to buy tickets for Tutankhamun's tomb (80 Egyptian pounds). Only Amanda bought one. He lead us to front of line and then once all in the gate we sat under a shade shelter while he talked about the area and explained how the ticket worked.
Our ticket was good for 3 tombs of our choice from those open to the public (except Tutankhamun and Ramesses VI).
He chose the 3 tombs for us to give us the best highlights.
The first was Ramesses IV. This tomb was long, complete and in good condition. It also was steep to get in and out. Again, no photos were allowed :( . But got to see the paintings and the main stone sarcophagus.
The next was Ramesses IX. This tomb was not complete, so saw some of how it was made. The paintings it did have were not as good of condition, but it did have a few good ones. This tomb had one steep area and no sarcophagus (in British Museum).
The next was Ramesses I. Before I went in, I asked the guide if he would be willing to go buy me a ticket for Tutankhamun while I was in this tomb. He agreed. The tomb had a really steep and long descent. Most of it is unpainted and not finished. At the bottom is the only chamber, but the paintings are well done, good condition and unique. After exiting, I found the guide and picked up Tut's ticket.
Tutankhamun's tomb had a short wait to get in. Also had to leave my camera up top. They check it for you at the ticket gate. The entry is steep, but not too long. At the bottom you have the main room which now contains Tut's mummy in a case, but only showing feet and face. [2019 NOTE: This was a new change they had made just a few months prior to my trip, until then his mummy had always been in his sarcophagus and not seen by anyone for decades. Concern over deterioration caused by higher humidity levels due to tourism was the prompt to place it in a climate controlled box in main room.]
The burial chamber wall is gone and you can see the entire chambers paintings. Well preserved, but low quality. Also see the outer stone sarcophagus and one of the inner gold painted ones.
Once out, we walked back to shuttles that run people the 1/2 mile up to the tombs. (We walked on the way up, but rides down are free.) At the entrance the guide showed us some cards we could buy of the tomb walls for 25 Egyptian pounds. I bought one to be delivered later. [2019 NOTE: I believe it is to protect these revenue streams that they started to ban photographs inside most places, especially with the advent of modern high resolution cameras that most people could afford.]
Used the toilet ($1 tip) and then we left through the always present row of shops. Guy had some nice painted figures of Tut's mask, coffin and Nefertiti head. He started at 300 Egyptian pounds. I told him I would give 100. Eventually settled at 120 Egyptian pounds. Then had to fight to get him to stop trying to sell me an ugly rock scarab. I later saw some slight damage to one of them, tried to exchange and he did, but then wanted 20 Egyptian pounds more. I traded them back and walked off.
About then our bus arrived. Boarded it and drove out of the valley. At the main road we met up with the guy who had all the picture cards some of us bought. Paid the guide and we drove on to the Temple of Hatshepsut.
He dropped us at ticket booth, bought tickets and then led us up to the gate. This time he told us a little history of the temple and then we were on our own inside with 45 minutes to use. Took some shots and some of temple next door (closed to public) which was lower down. When done we all met up around the lot and went to bus.
Drove back into village to the docks. I ended up sitting in front cab of van this time, so got some shots of the roads, traffic and village as we went.
We boarded the water taxi and went across to the east bank. We walked back to the hotel and Sami got us the keys to the 3 rooms we had to use for the day. 5 people per room, and that is not nice. Small rooms and no A/C that we could find. I ended up in room with two of the couples. We talked about lunch and then got with others going out. We walked back to the area around Luxor temple and ate at a place called Snack Time. I had a Coke, chicken Shawarma, falafel, and spicy chicken balls. All that for 30 Egyptian pounds. Part of the group had gone elsewhere. I ate with same couples from room and Marshall. We then all walked down to water front so one couple could visit internet cafe. Walked up up to road with Marshall and other couple. On way back to cafe we met up with the girls (Stephanie, Angela, Amanda, Katie and Rebecca).
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| Luxor Temple from balcony of Snack Time restaurant |
Rebecca went to internet cafe and Marshall went with his family. Other couple disappeared and I walked with Amanda down to get some water (3 Egyptian pounds). We walked back and got Katie with us and walked to the end of shops. Then decided to go down road to Mummification Museum. Spent 40 Egyptian pounds for entry.
This was a small place, but well managed. Saw some diagrams about making mummies and the funeral process. Also had a mummy and other funeral items around.
Afterwards we walked back to the shops. Found Rebecca still in cafe online, Marshall and his family in jewelry shop next door.
We all waited, Rebecca joined us. When Stephanie was done shopping we walked down street.
Eventually as we stopped to buy things we all got separated again. I bought a water bottle cooler/case for 25 Egyptian pounds. Also bought a large suitcase/bag for 95 Egyptian pounds. Found a postage stamp place and got a stamp for 2 Egyptian pounds.
Once back at hotel we talked about swimming at the rooftop pool, but it was ice cold. Did go up and take some photos (7th floor roof).
This was a small place, but well managed. Saw some diagrams about making mummies and the funeral process. Also had a mummy and other funeral items around.
Afterwards we walked back to the shops. Found Rebecca still in cafe online, Marshall and his family in jewelry shop next door.
We all waited, Rebecca joined us. When Stephanie was done shopping we walked down street.
Eventually as we stopped to buy things we all got separated again. I bought a water bottle cooler/case for 25 Egyptian pounds. Also bought a large suitcase/bag for 95 Egyptian pounds. Found a postage stamp place and got a stamp for 2 Egyptian pounds.
Once back at hotel we talked about swimming at the rooftop pool, but it was ice cold. Did go up and take some photos (7th floor roof).
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| Nile river and west bank across it from hotel roof pool deck. |
Went to room, both couples watching TV. Was way too hot in room, so walked up to 6th floor open lounge on roof. Found Katie there and talked for a bit.
Later Rebecca showed, Katie left and a bit later Marshall came down from pool area where he had taken a nap (nice cool breeze if you stayed out of sun). Rebecca left and I went to get camera for sunset photos. After that wrote in this to burn time till dinner at 7:00 p.m.
Later Rebecca showed, Katie left and a bit later Marshall came down from pool area where he had taken a nap (nice cool breeze if you stayed out of sun). Rebecca left and I went to get camera for sunset photos. After that wrote in this to burn time till dinner at 7:00 p.m.
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| Sunset in Luxor over Nile from roof top pool deck. |
Went down to the room and took a shower. Then repacked my stuff into my new bag. After that I went down to the shop and bought another book (80 Egyptian pounds) and a book of various Egyptian stamps for 45 Egyptian pounds. Sami also found me there and gave me my obelisk from the day before.
I ran everything up to the room (which was locked, so had to go get key and then back up) and stowed them in bag.
Went down to dinner. Sami gave us our train tickets and described the rest of the night. Dinner was another buffet. Had pasta soup, potatoes, chicken, macaroni & cheese?, some kind of fish and some beef in sauce. Drank a Coke.
After dinner went to shop and found an old mint sheet of Tutankhamun stamps from 1971. Got them for 20 Egyptian pounds. Put them in room and then came up to roof to stay cool. Took some photos and wrote in here.
Wandered back and forth from room to roof to keep cool. Finally the time came to put bags in the hall for the porters to pickup. Waited down in lobby with rest of group till bags were all brought down. Porters loaded luggage onto mini-bus and we made our way to Luxor train station. Got bags and went through security, drop stuff to await train. Walked down and bought some water (5 Egyptian pounds) and talked till train arrived. Boarded train, stowed bags and talked a bit till train pulled out of station about 11:30 p.m.
*Note that I was able to verify that when we arrive in Cairo I will be able to take bags to the Pharaoh's hotel and then will join a party from another group on a day trip to Alexandria. This 10 hour extension will cost 190 Egyptian pounds. Should see the museum, catacombs, sunset near citadel, free time and dinner somewhere if we like before return to Cairo. Afterwards may go spend a bit of time with the others at the Buddha Bar for a drink and to say farewell.*
I ran everything up to the room (which was locked, so had to go get key and then back up) and stowed them in bag.
Went down to dinner. Sami gave us our train tickets and described the rest of the night. Dinner was another buffet. Had pasta soup, potatoes, chicken, macaroni & cheese?, some kind of fish and some beef in sauce. Drank a Coke.
After dinner went to shop and found an old mint sheet of Tutankhamun stamps from 1971. Got them for 20 Egyptian pounds. Put them in room and then came up to roof to stay cool. Took some photos and wrote in here.
Wandered back and forth from room to roof to keep cool. Finally the time came to put bags in the hall for the porters to pickup. Waited down in lobby with rest of group till bags were all brought down. Porters loaded luggage onto mini-bus and we made our way to Luxor train station. Got bags and went through security, drop stuff to await train. Walked down and bought some water (5 Egyptian pounds) and talked till train arrived. Boarded train, stowed bags and talked a bit till train pulled out of station about 11:30 p.m.
*Note that I was able to verify that when we arrive in Cairo I will be able to take bags to the Pharaoh's hotel and then will join a party from another group on a day trip to Alexandria. This 10 hour extension will cost 190 Egyptian pounds. Should see the museum, catacombs, sunset near citadel, free time and dinner somewhere if we like before return to Cairo. Afterwards may go spend a bit of time with the others at the Buddha Bar for a drink and to say farewell.*
Day 8 - November 18th, 2007 - Luxor
Was up at 4:00 a.m. Got ready and met in main lounge. Box breakfast was supplied. Boarded a bus that drove us a few miles into Luxor to a hotel. Not realizing we were not using this bus again, many of us left our food boxes on the bus :( .
At this hotel was the office for the trip management group. We boarded water taxi's behind the hotel for an early, cold crossing of the Nile. On the west bank we again boarded small van taxi's and drove up to the balloon launching area (some empty fields). We were divided up and put on balloons. Most of us were in the same balloon. We had a safety briefing prior to getting in and soon took off.
We came up behind the Ramesseum and had good views of the Medinet Habu, Deir El Medina, Hatshepsut's Temple and other old temples. We did not seem to move much, staying in the same area of the Ramesseum. We were airborne for sunrise.
We were up for about 50 minutes and reached an altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level. We started to descend, went right over the Collosi of Memnon and landed in a farm field. There was a small word exchange between the farmer and the balloon operator, and they moved us while still in the basket to a bare area. Then they had us wait while full gas tanks were loaded, and then pulled us out while putting the next group in.
Once out we got a certificate of the flight, then met with the guide. He collected the money for the next optional tours. We got into a van taxi and were dropped off about a mile away at a bus stop. We waited there until our mini bus picked us up.
We drove a short distance to Deir El Medina. Looked over the village for a bit, then visited inside two of the worker tombs. One was the village supervisor, the other one of the other workers. Both were well preserved. In one of the tombs I exchanged the keeper 5 Egyptian pounds for an Australian dollar.
We drove down to the river and met up with Sami. Those of us not going for the camel ride stayed with Sami at a restaurant called Africa. We sat on the open roof. I wrote all this while the others talked.
The camel riders arrived back and we all went down to the curb to await the bus. After boarding the bus we took the long route south and across the bridge by the boat dock.
We all hit our rooms and then most of us found our way to the sun deck to talk until lunch. Lunch at 1:00 was great again. Couscous with tomato sauce, some kind of beef with peppers in it, breaded fish, scalloped potatoes, chicken in sauce and a vegetable and pasta soup.
Came back to room and wrote after lunch.
Went up onto sun deck after a bit and spent some time talking. Then we all gathered down at the lobby for a quick meeting about the next day. We also discussed tonight's activities.
After that we got on a mini-bus and drove into central Luxor. We stopped at the horse carriage place and all got into carriages. 3 people per buggy. I sat up on the seat next to the driver. The ride was rough and kind of sucked with all the cars. The horses looked like they were not treated as good as they should be.
We rode past Luxor Temple and onto the corniche road (Roads along the Nile banks, usually main routes) and after about 15 minutes arrived at Karnak Temple. Our guide was same from earlier.
He showed us around the temple and pointed out unique things he has found in his years of study. We saw the main pylon, sphinx rows, hypostyle hall, both obelisks and the sacred lake. Got some nice photos of sunset while there.
After the tour we had a few moments to ourselves. I explored a few other areas and then found the restrooms. Paid $1 to use it, then left to meet group outside temple. We walked over to the horse buggies and were taken back down to the center of Luxor.
They dropped us off at a shop selling mainly jewelry that was recommended for us to shop at. I did not expect to find anything, but ended up buying a glass obelisk for 150 Egyptian pounds. It will be delivered to my hotel room tomorrow. We stood a bit while others shopped, then walked down to the river bank.
Sami showed us some good sites for shopping, eating and a few other museums. He also took us close to Luxor temple for a great night time shot.
We also walked the old market area and found a few other shops to check out. We waited while a few tried to get money from the ATM (I had hit the exchange after Karnak and traded another $200)
which was not working for them. We then walked down to the river bank bazaar and Sami pointed out a few good shops owned by a friend of his. A restaurant, cafe, bowling alley/bar and high end shop.
We then got back to the corniche street and waited for our bus. I asked about buying stamps and was informed where the post office was. Will try to get there first thing tomorrow when we come back to Luxor.
We got on the bus and came back to the boat. Sat for a bit and then went to dinner. This time had rice, fish in sauce, fried chicken pieces, some kind of casserole and split pea soup. Drank a Coke, then had a few desserts. Talked a bit after dinner and then came back to room and wrote in this book some.
At 9:00 they had some traditional dancers in the main lounge. A guy who just spun in circles for a long time and a female belly dancer. Both were kind of boring, the music (played live) was too loud for the tones used and the room was too smoke filled. I soon left and came back to the room and got stuff packed up for morning. Then went to sleep.
*Note that we did have to pay our drink tabs at 9:30 p.m. in cash. My total for 3 nights was 56 Egyptian pounds.*
At this hotel was the office for the trip management group. We boarded water taxi's behind the hotel for an early, cold crossing of the Nile. On the west bank we again boarded small van taxi's and drove up to the balloon launching area (some empty fields). We were divided up and put on balloons. Most of us were in the same balloon. We had a safety briefing prior to getting in and soon took off.
We came up behind the Ramesseum and had good views of the Medinet Habu, Deir El Medina, Hatshepsut's Temple and other old temples. We did not seem to move much, staying in the same area of the Ramesseum. We were airborne for sunrise.
 |
| Ramesseum temple complex. |
We were up for about 50 minutes and reached an altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level. We started to descend, went right over the Collosi of Memnon and landed in a farm field. There was a small word exchange between the farmer and the balloon operator, and they moved us while still in the basket to a bare area. Then they had us wait while full gas tanks were loaded, and then pulled us out while putting the next group in.
Once out we got a certificate of the flight, then met with the guide. He collected the money for the next optional tours. We got into a van taxi and were dropped off about a mile away at a bus stop. We waited there until our mini bus picked us up.
We drove a short distance to Deir El Medina. Looked over the village for a bit, then visited inside two of the worker tombs. One was the village supervisor, the other one of the other workers. Both were well preserved. In one of the tombs I exchanged the keeper 5 Egyptian pounds for an Australian dollar.
 |
| Deir el Medina, village of workers who built tombs in Valley of the Kings. |
After that we drove down the road to the Medinet Habu temple. Went inside with guide and visited most of the main halls and some smaller rooms. We also visited the ruins of Ramesses III palace outside the temple. Had to pay $1 to some worker who tried to show me some stuff.
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| Detail of main hall in Medinet Habu temple. |
Once outside we walked along a street with a few shops. Some guy tried to sell me some small statues. Price was not bad, but do not have room in my bag.
We found the guide at a small cafe, most of us bought drinks or ice cream and then got on bus and drove to the Collosi of Memnon. We stopped for 5 minutes to get a few pictures.
We found the guide at a small cafe, most of us bought drinks or ice cream and then got on bus and drove to the Collosi of Memnon. We stopped for 5 minutes to get a few pictures.
We drove down to the river and met up with Sami. Those of us not going for the camel ride stayed with Sami at a restaurant called Africa. We sat on the open roof. I wrote all this while the others talked.
The camel riders arrived back and we all went down to the curb to await the bus. After boarding the bus we took the long route south and across the bridge by the boat dock.
We all hit our rooms and then most of us found our way to the sun deck to talk until lunch. Lunch at 1:00 was great again. Couscous with tomato sauce, some kind of beef with peppers in it, breaded fish, scalloped potatoes, chicken in sauce and a vegetable and pasta soup.
Came back to room and wrote after lunch.
Went up onto sun deck after a bit and spent some time talking. Then we all gathered down at the lobby for a quick meeting about the next day. We also discussed tonight's activities.
After that we got on a mini-bus and drove into central Luxor. We stopped at the horse carriage place and all got into carriages. 3 people per buggy. I sat up on the seat next to the driver. The ride was rough and kind of sucked with all the cars. The horses looked like they were not treated as good as they should be.
We rode past Luxor Temple and onto the corniche road (Roads along the Nile banks, usually main routes) and after about 15 minutes arrived at Karnak Temple. Our guide was same from earlier.
He showed us around the temple and pointed out unique things he has found in his years of study. We saw the main pylon, sphinx rows, hypostyle hall, both obelisks and the sacred lake. Got some nice photos of sunset while there.
 |
| Detail of one of the sphinx lined avenues. |
 |
| Great Hypostyle hall at Karnak. |
 |
| The 2 obelisks still standing at Karnak. |
After the tour we had a few moments to ourselves. I explored a few other areas and then found the restrooms. Paid $1 to use it, then left to meet group outside temple. We walked over to the horse buggies and were taken back down to the center of Luxor.
They dropped us off at a shop selling mainly jewelry that was recommended for us to shop at. I did not expect to find anything, but ended up buying a glass obelisk for 150 Egyptian pounds. It will be delivered to my hotel room tomorrow. We stood a bit while others shopped, then walked down to the river bank.
Sami showed us some good sites for shopping, eating and a few other museums. He also took us close to Luxor temple for a great night time shot.
We also walked the old market area and found a few other shops to check out. We waited while a few tried to get money from the ATM (I had hit the exchange after Karnak and traded another $200)
which was not working for them. We then walked down to the river bank bazaar and Sami pointed out a few good shops owned by a friend of his. A restaurant, cafe, bowling alley/bar and high end shop.
We then got back to the corniche street and waited for our bus. I asked about buying stamps and was informed where the post office was. Will try to get there first thing tomorrow when we come back to Luxor.
We got on the bus and came back to the boat. Sat for a bit and then went to dinner. This time had rice, fish in sauce, fried chicken pieces, some kind of casserole and split pea soup. Drank a Coke, then had a few desserts. Talked a bit after dinner and then came back to room and wrote in this book some.
At 9:00 they had some traditional dancers in the main lounge. A guy who just spun in circles for a long time and a female belly dancer. Both were kind of boring, the music (played live) was too loud for the tones used and the room was too smoke filled. I soon left and came back to the room and got stuff packed up for morning. Then went to sleep.
*Note that we did have to pay our drink tabs at 9:30 p.m. in cash. My total for 3 nights was 56 Egyptian pounds.*
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